It was a misty morning when I set out to walk into the city of Zagreb.
Across the River Sava, Zagreb, CroatiaStanding between busy main roads named after him is the portly figure of Većeslav Holjevac who was a Croatian and Yugoslan soldier and communist politician. Zagreb, Croatia.
Holjevac was born in Karlovac, at the time, in Austria-Hungary. He joined the Communist Party of Yugoslavia in 1939.
On the way into town I go past the National and University Libraries. Zagreb, Croatia.
Up until now they have been shut (holiday, weekend etc) and yesterday was no exception for the one on the left. The brusque security guards reluctantly let me use the toilets, but although there were lots of people there they wouldn’t let me in.
The development of Croatian language exhibition, National Library, Zagreb, Croatia.The development of Croatian language exhibition, National Library, Zagreb, Croatia.
Definitely still has a communist air doesn’t it!
St George, patron saint of England, who I have found all around Zagreb. Here he is part of the development of Croatian language exhibition, National Library, Zagreb, Croatia.
This is an exhibition which aims to to keep alive and use the ancient Glagolitic alphabet.
Such elevated status of Angular Glagolitic rests on the hardworking hands of stonemasons, weary eyes of scribes, zeal of Glagolitic priests, skills of Croatia’s oldest master printers, dedication of researchers, and the creativity and vision of enthusiastic individuals working in the creative industries. From the website
Giant examples of the script at The development of Croatian language exhibition, National Library, Zagreb, Croatia.The development of Croatian language exhibition, National Library, Zagreb, Croatia.They were turning over the pages of this huge book while a man (and I) took photos. National Library, Zagreb, Croatia.The shop wasn’t open but I could see packets of biscuits in the shape of letters ready to be sold! National Library, Zagreb, Croatia.Afterwards I saw symbols and signs everywhere! Diagrams, basicallym which we learn to interpret as concepts, instructions and indications.
The Music Academy Zagreb (trg Republike Hrvatska (Croatia)). I am not sure how it got planning permission to go up where it is, cheek by jowl with all the old monuments, but there is something impressivly multi-coloured about it. Zagreb, Croatia.
Near where I am staying there are a series of underpasses which take you from one side of Avenija Dubrovnik to the other and, half way between, to the tram stops. I go there for the graffiti…
Graffiti, Zagreb, Croatia.
…and I am always hoping to hear more busking like the violinist who was there a few days ago. It may have come from the symphony byDora Pejačević (10 September 1885 – 5 March 1923) who was a Croatian composer, a member of a noble family. Her Symphony in F-sharp minor is considered by scholars to be the first modern symphony in Croatian music.
The guitarist who plays folk music regularly in the underpassChristmas shop window, Zagreb, Croatia.
Nearly Xmas. Phew! I thought I might miss out on reindeer shop displays if I was away from home, but no.
The bus station is on the east side. Autobusni Kolodvor (station), Avenija Marina Držića 4, 10000, Zagreb.
There is a handy pastry and bread stall immediately outside for breakfast if you have been on the all-night bus from Milan like I had. It is just by the tram stop. Thanks to Léa for treating me.
Public toilets, Zagreb, Croatia.
Public toilets are open, lit up at night and come in a nice shade of green (which would make my friend L happy).
Winnie the Pooh in Croatian, sold at Booksa.Trams have handy places to put your bag, meaning it doesn’t have to go on the floor and get wet, or if it already has a soggy bottom, on your lap!
Tickets 4 kun from tabacco kiosks which you can find on many street corners (though lots are shut on Sundays).
And they might look like basic plastic red and yellow seats but they are heated! Zagreb, Croatia.A blue tram whizzes through the main square in the rain one evening. Zagreb, Croatia.
Brits: Look left when you cross the road! Although there are lots of one way streets – basically beware. I had a very close shave when a most apologetic driver ran over my left foot. Lucky I had my heavy duty walking boots on.
Opposite the Botanic Gardens is what I call the owl building. It has oxydised green owls at roof height, symbol of wisdom. That’s them above, on the top right and left corners.It is the Croatian State Archives and the weather was too bad to get a proper shot of them from the back.
Tuesday´s treat was the Museum of Arts and Crafts (open until 7pm most days except Sundays 10am-2pm). It is a veritable treasure store.
A whole room of clocks which chime on and off, and sometimes altogether, in a variety of dulcet tones – beautiful. (Museum of Arts and Crafts, Zagreb, Croatia)One of bells – not seen that before. (Museum of Arts and Crafts, Zagreb, Croatia)Glass, including stained and a lovely Chinese teapot. (Museum of Arts and Crafts, Zagreb, Croatia)In fact, all manner of photographs, paintings, furniture, loads of fans (the sort which are fluttered by ladies in theatres), mahogany doors, lacy iron gates … (Museum of Arts and Crafts, Zagreb, Croatia)Cabinet of mixed artefacts, Museum of Arts and Crafts. (Zagreb, Croatia)A great section heading where I was glad to find my old chum, Saint James. (Museum of Arts and Crafts, Zagreb, Croatia)Patron Saint of the Camino and walking in Spain, known in Croatia as Jakov. (Museum of Arts and Crafts, Zagreb, Croatia)Although somewhat unconnected, the ceiling in the furniture section looks stunning. (Museum of Arts and Crafts, Zagreb, Croatia)On the ground floor is the New Croatian Designers exhibition. To be honest I just thought these t-shirts and their shadows would make a good photo. ((Museum of Arts and Crafts, Zagreb, Croatia)But I was genuinely tickled by the inside out-ness of these table legs. Something Paddington Bear might have done, no? (Museum of Arts and Crafts, Zagreb, Croatia)
In the basement are the winners of an International Photography Exhibition. This one, by Jorie Horsthuis, is about translators at the War Crimes Court in The Hague which I found really moving. (Museum of Arts and Crafts, Zagreb, Croatia)And this, entitled Scripta Manent, which the sign says ‘allows us to look at the women from the historical country of Medea. Iron Curtain, independence, war and cold. Disconnected from electricity.’ It highlights the lot of the women who have paid vast sums to relocate to get a job, leaving their children and families behind in Greece. (Museum of Arts and Crafts, Zagreb, Croatia)I really liked this candelabra. (Museum of Arts and Crafts, Zagreb, Croatia)This is the front door of the Ladies Toilet, looking inside. (Museum of Arts and Crafts, Zagreb, Croatia)The interior main hallway of the Museum of Arts and Crafts reminds me of that at the Portrait Gallery in Edinburgh. (Zagreb, Croatia)The courtyard with its ivy clad walls looks like a nice summer spot for a sit-down. (Museum of Arts and Crafts, Zagreb, Croatia)The Arts and Crafts Museum from the outside. (Zagreb, Croatia)
Zagreb, photo in Museum of Arts and Crafts. Croatia.Zagreb, view over the rooftops. Croatia.
Booksa is a book club. Warm and friendly, you must pay an annual fee of 10 kun (£1.20, 1. 35 euros) to join. There is a small library including books in English, newspapers, comfy chairs, wifi and a cafe.
A book is to a man what a binocular is to an astronomer or a microscope to a medical student – an instrument improving observation ability. Matko Peić
Booksa, Marticeva Street, Zagreb, Croatia.
They also have book readings etc, mostly in Croatian. The staff speak great English. Like all cafés in Zagreb, there is no food on sale, nor alcohol, but the jasmine tea (proper tea leaves) and hot chocolate are fab.
I spent many hours at Booksa – a convivial atmosphere.
Friday
Without realising quite how wet it was, I set off to walk into the city centre as usual (approx 1 hour from Sopot where I am staying), but the rain was torrential. The bus was quick and straightforward although I still had to walk for 20 minutes or so and therefore arrived at the Museum of Broken Relationships in a completely soaked state. The money in my purse in my bum bag was wet and the stamps stuck together!
On the way up the many steps to the Museum of Broken Relationships.Giving great views of the city.Zagreb cathedral at night.The cafe at the Museum of Broken Relationships.The caterpillar you can see in the picture is a story where the couple broke off one of its legs each time they met. They agreed that when all were off they would marry (at least I think that was it). Only 5 or so were gone by the time they broke up 😦
It is a most unusual and very popular place, particularly frequented by young people. The exhibits have all been donated by the public, made up from a collection of sad stories with connected items and memorabilia. Well curated, there is perhaps unsurprisingly a sombre atmosphere. The cafe is smart with WiFi and expensive. 40 kun to enter (cheaper for students or older folk).
One of the shortest funiculars in the world (according to Wikipedia). Croatia.I found this in the city centre, leaning against a wall. A witch must have left her broomstick behind on Halloween!
Sunday
I took a river walk – after 2 days of torrential rain, I was happy that it was fine again, though cool and misty. The mountains in the distance had however disappeared.
There were three women walking solo – 2 of us were taking photos!
There are white paths stretching in both directions beside the Sava River. Between them and the banks there are expanses of grass which I guess are often deluged because there are mud covered plants there.
Under the bridge.Another red line. (See previous blog).
Monday
I walked to the Botanics and they are gloriously free to enter, bijou and bonny.
The first sight of the Botanic Gardens from the underpass – a red pagoda similar to the one in Edinburgh.Botanic Gardens, Zagreb – palm and fountains.
Here are some slideshows of plants, fungi, flowers, vegetables and the dome with the giant (up to 2 metres wide) water lilies from Souzth America inside it. Despite winter being right around the corner, there was plenty to see.
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I have added more Botanic Garden photos here so that this blog doesn´t take too long to load and look at.
Cottage in the grounds of the Botanic Gardens, Zagreb. Rambling roses and everything.
Botanic Gardens The Zagreb Botanical Garden is a botanical garden located in downtown Zagreb, Croatia. Founded in 1889 by Antun Heinz, Professor of the University of Zagreb, and opened to public in 1891, it is part of the Faculty of Science.
I was pleased with the colour scheme – the lady´s coat, the houses between the trees, the foliage of the Cyprus.
Zagreb Practicalities
The Privredna Bank: It was dry and warm, and when I got to the counter the currency exchange was smooth and straightforward. I got a much, much better rate of kun to euros than I did in Italy. But. I have almost never had to wait so long for anything. Ever.
National Theatre, Zagreb. They like yellow buildings here. Croatia.
The Post Office: In contrast there was no queue at the post office and although the willing woman had almost no English I managed to make myself understood. Stamps to the UK cost 5.80 kun for a postcard.
Evangelical Church, Zagreb, Croatia.
Bars and cafes do not serve food. Many allow smokers inside rather than making them go out, even though most have nice awnings with cosy blankets now in November.
Getting around: buses and trams both seem to be very efficient. Buy tickets from tabac kiosks, 4 kun each, in advance and when you get on (you can use any door), go right to the front to find the little yellow box attached to one of the chrome uprights. Insert your ticket with the silver part towards you and wait for it to make a noise. Beware! most tabac kiosks are shut on Sundays so you might get stranded without a bus ticket. I asked and was directed by friendly waiters outside the theatre.
Like lots of cities, Mondays are quiet with many buildings being closed eg Booksa and the Museum of Contemporary Art. However, the Museum of Broken Relationships is open, as are the Botanic Gardens, Maksimir and Gradski Parks.
The Tourist Information office is in Ban Jelačić Square, not far from the man on horseback (below).Josip Jelačić von Buzim, ban of Croatia (1948 – 49). He was a military man and responsible for abolishing serfs in Croatia so we like him for that.
The Tourist Information women had no information about walks (it was the same in Vienna) but were very kind and did tell me about Maksimir Park, for which I am very grateful.
Maksimir Park, Zagreb, Croatia.Maksimir Park, Zagreb, Croatia.Maksimir Park, Zagreb, Croatia.
Maksimir Park is in the north east of the city, well served by trams 4, 7, 11 and 12 (same fare wherever you travel). The park was full of people. There are wilder parts and very well frequented paths with street lighting as in Norway. I saw two cafes but only the Gazebo one was open. The Swiss House must be a summer only venue.
The first lake I came to in Maksimir Park – blue sky reflected with Autumn colours.
Basically I was in heaven!
Dusk and the lights from the stadium over the road.
People ran and cycled and wandered.
The Pavillion of Echoes – mother and daughter whispering.
They played and kissed.
The Pavillion of Echoes – typical feature of the early romantic garden based on the English model.A saltire flag of pansies.
Some seemed to be preparing for the camino with 2 walking poles a-piece and going at a fair speed.
Birch Cottage built between 1853 and 1862. An old man, the only person to speak to me except a boy who said bok (hi) stopped and told me all about the architecture (I think) in fluent Croatian.
There are several open air theatre type spaces.
Path and stream on the Police Academy side of Maksimir park.
Alzthough I smiled, almost everyone looked straight through me without changing their expressions – bioth here and in the city, although in the shops and museums they are friendly when I make an effort to say my first word – hvala, thank you.
I saw a man climb these what I thought were sculptures. Maybe they are part of a fitness regime?
Lots of ancient oak trees, with beechm birch, chestnut and many others. It is the trees which are the spectacle here. The trees and the lakes.
St Jurajs Chapel, named after Archbishop Juraj Haulik who designed and created the park.Misty Autumn seedheads.
There are ducks on all the lakes, and birds singing in the trees.
More reminders of my Scottish home, in sky and reflection.Tiny toasdstools I found inside a rotting hollow of a fallen tree.More felled trees – the park is beautifully managed.The education centre I think. Looked like Hansel and Gretels place to me.Red catkins and those ´sculptures´ opposite.There is a Dahlia Valley but I think the best must have been over as there were a desultory few in a couple of beds. Always remind me of my Poppa who gave me my first tubers when I was student in London.Grasses.Lighting straight out of The Lion, The Witch and The Wardrobe. They looked magical when they were all lit as I was leaving (but didn´t make good photos).The Gazebo. ´Typically Palladium motifs varied by the Viennna architecture.´ There is a cafe here.
St Jeronimas Church near the entrance to the zoo which is also part of the Maksimir Park.The first statue of a woman I have seen (excepting the Virgin Mary).
There is some more information and extra photos here on the Zagreb 4 blog.
Walking without a donkey 