It was a misty morning when I set out to walk into the city of Zagreb.
Holjevac was born in Karlovac, at the time, in Austria-Hungary. He joined the Communist Party of Yugoslavia in 1939.
Up until now they have been shut (holiday, weekend etc) and yesterday was no exception for the one on the left. The brusque security guards reluctantly let me use the toilets, but although there were lots of people there they wouldn’t let me in.
This is an exhibition which aims to to keep alive and use the ancient Glagolitic alphabet.
Such elevated status of Angular Glagolitic rests on the hardworking hands of stonemasons, weary eyes of scribes, zeal of Glagolitic priests, skills of Croatia’s oldest master printers, dedication of researchers, and the creativity and vision of enthusiastic individuals working in the creative industries. From the website
Near where I am staying there are a series of underpasses which take you from one side of Avenija Dubrovnik to the other and, half way between, to the tram stops. I go there for the graffiti…
…and I am always hoping to hear more busking like the violinist who was there a few days ago. It may have come from the symphony byDora Pejačević (10 September 1885 – 5 March 1923) who was a Croatian composer, a member of a noble family. Her Symphony in F-sharp minor is considered by scholars to be the first modern symphony in Croatian music.
Nearly Xmas. Phew! I thought I might miss out on reindeer shop displays if I was away from home, but no.
There is a handy pastry and bread stall immediately outside for breakfast if you have been on the all-night bus from Milan like I had. It is just by the tram stop. Thanks to Léa for treating me.
Public toilets are open, lit up at night and come in a nice shade of green (which would make my friend L happy).
Tickets 4 kun from tabacco kiosks which you can find on many street corners (though lots are shut on Sundays).
Brits: Look left when you cross the road! Although there are lots of one way streets – basically beware. I had a very close shave when a most apologetic driver ran over my left foot. Lucky I had my heavy duty walking boots on.
Booksa is a book club. Warm and friendly, you must pay an annual fee of 10 kun (£1.20, 1. 35 euros) to join. There is a small library including books in English, newspapers, comfy chairs, wifi and a cafe.
A book is to a man what a binocular is to an astronomer or a microscope to a medical student – an instrument improving observation ability. Matko Peić
They also have book readings etc, mostly in Croatian. The staff speak great English. Like all cafés in Zagreb, there is no food on sale, nor alcohol, but the jasmine tea (proper tea leaves) and hot chocolate are fab.
Without realising quite how wet it was, I set off to walk into the city centre as usual (approx 1 hour from Sopot where I am staying), but the rain was torrential. The bus was quick and straightforward although I still had to walk for 20 minutes or so and therefore arrived at the Museum of Broken Relationships in a completely soaked state. The money in my purse in my bum bag was wet and the stamps stuck together!
It is a most unusual and very popular place, particularly frequented by young people. The exhibits have all been donated by the public, made up from a collection of sad stories with connected items and memorabilia. Well curated, there is perhaps unsurprisingly a sombre atmosphere. The cafe is smart with WiFi and expensive. 40 kun to enter (cheaper for students or older folk).
I took a river walk – after 2 days of torrential rain, I was happy that it was fine again, though cool and misty. The mountains in the distance had however disappeared.
There are white paths stretching in both directions beside the Sava River. Between them and the banks there are expanses of grass which I guess are often deluged because there are mud covered plants there.
I walked to the Botanics and they are gloriously free to enter, bijou and bonny.
Here are some slideshows of plants, fungi, flowers, vegetables and the dome with the giant (up to 2 metres wide) water lilies from Souzth America inside it. Despite winter being right around the corner, there was plenty to see.
Botanic Gardens The Zagreb Botanical Garden is a botanical garden located in downtown Zagreb, Croatia. Founded in 1889 by Antun Heinz, Professor of the University of Zagreb, and opened to public in 1891, it is part of the Faculty of Science.
The Privredna Bank: It was dry and warm, and when I got to the counter the currency exchange was smooth and straightforward. I got a much, much better rate of kun to euros than I did in Italy. But. I have almost never had to wait so long for anything. Ever.
The Post Office: In contrast there was no queue at the post office and although the willing woman had almost no English I managed to make myself understood. Stamps to the UK cost 5.80 kun for a postcard.
Bars and cafes do not serve food. Many allow smokers inside rather than making them go out, even though most have nice awnings with cosy blankets now in November.
Getting around: buses and trams both seem to be very efficient. Buy tickets from tabac kiosks, 4 kun each, in advance and when you get on (you can use any door), go right to the front to find the little yellow box attached to one of the chrome uprights. Insert your ticket with the silver part towards you and wait for it to make a noise. Beware! most tabac kiosks are shut on Sundays so you might get stranded without a bus ticket. I asked and was directed by friendly waiters outside the theatre.
Maksimir Park is in the north east of the city, well served by trams 4, 7, 11 and 12 (same fare wherever you travel). The park was full of people. There are wilder parts and very well frequented paths with street lighting as in Norway. I saw two cafes but only the Gazebo one was open. The Swiss House must be a summer only venue.
Basically I was in heaven!
People ran and cycled and wandered.
They played and kissed.
Some seemed to be preparing for the camino with 2 walking poles a-piece and going at a fair speed.
There are several open air theatre type spaces.
Alzthough I smiled, almost everyone looked straight through me without changing their expressions – bioth here and in the city, although in the shops and museums they are friendly when I make an effort to say my first word – hvala, thank you.
Lots of ancient oak trees, with beechm birch, chestnut and many others. It is the trees which are the spectacle here. The trees and the lakes.
There are ducks on all the lakes, and birds singing in the trees.
There is some more information and extra photos here on the Zagreb 4 blog.