Camino Portuguese da Costa – Day 13, October 1st 2019
Leaving Caldas de Reis
Caldas means hot springs and although a foot fountain was right outside my hostel, there was no encouragement to bathe mine as they dissuade you for hygene reasons.
Towering palms beside the Igrexa de san Tome Becket (the British St Thomas a Becket), Caldas de Reis, Spain
There is a Bishop’s mitre on the door and otherwise I cannot find out what the connection is between St Thomas a Becket and Caldas de Reis – although of course he may have made pilgrimage here.
Street art, Caldas de Reis, Camino Portuguese, SpainOne of the many beautiful stone fountains you can see on the Portuguese Camino. Here emblazoned with the shell symbol of paths meeting at Santiago de CompostellaWalking out of Caldas de Reis, I looked down a long valley, the view spoiled by a pylon, SpainField pumpkins. Although there were squash everywhere in the fields and gardens, I never saw them offered on a menuReflections in the traditional, central washing area with what appeared to be self-seeded white lillies randomly dotted around. Carracedo, Spain
Further down the road were clumps of pink lillies growing wild on the banks like the lupins do in Scotland along the motorway between Edinburgh and Perth.
Iglesia San Clemente de Cesar, outside Caldas de Reis, SpainTall brassicas growing in O Cruceiro, SpainThree Bird Toadflax (Linaria triornithophora). I used the Leafsnap plant identifier app – free)Memorial and location of Albert’s ashes, left by his friend. They had planned to walk the Camino together, but Albert had died on the operating table beforehand. Camino Portuguese, Spain
There are many such places to be found along the paths of the Caminos de Santiago.
Cemetery, Camino Portuguese, SpainSunshine in the form of canna lillies with their buxom seed pods, SpainGourds (used for carrying water by early pilgrims) and a camino shell on a rusty metal cross with plants and inscriptions, Camino Portuguese, SpainPrickly pears, Spain
Pontecesures (on the way)
Coming into Pontecesures with its industrial pollution, SpainThis cafe was recommended in a guide which I read. It was truly idiosyncratic, run by one man who has his own way of doing things, takes offence easily, and is dedicated to the Camino. Pontecesures, Spain
Just before crossing the River Ulla, on the right at a corner (if I remember correctly) is the place in the above photo. With makeshift furniture and varying quality of food, it is a somewhere to sit out of the sun and get refreshments. It appears to be donativo, but the maitre d’ expected payment and it was obviously a rather random affair. He was not chatty with me, but did serve up the ‘last’ bowl of vegetarian stew (it came recommended). He took a liking to the young couple who came in later, but sent another man who asked questions, packing! The flags and the individual nature of this place reminded me of Manjarín on the Camino Frances.
The Rio (river) Ulla, Pontecesures, SpainThe Glory Bush (Tibouchina urvilliana) flower. (Thanks to Name That Plant on houzz.com)
After crossing the bridge at Ponte(bridge)cesures and climbing up the other side in full, hot sun, the path took me along the banks of the River Ulla towards the San Antonio (St Anthony’s) Monastery of Herbón.
These kiwi fruit were drooping off the stalks and there were acres of them, on the way to Herbón, SpainThe route wound along the banks of the River Ulla, sometimes amidst the undergrowth, although the signs were pretty clear, Camino Portuguese
This time I did not bathe as I was keen to get a bed for the night in the monastery on the opposite bank.
Weir, River Ulla, SpainRed as well as yellow arrows here. Up and down I went, towards and away from the river, before crossing and climbing uphill away from it. Camino Portuguese, SpainA small salamander basking in the sun!
Herbón Monastery
Walking around the walls of the Herbón Monastery looking for the entrance I spotted this shrine, Spain
I was pushing myself (not great for the still-painful foot) because of spening time over lunch and knowing that there is always competition to get a bed at the Herbón Monastery. I passed a couple who were clearly needing some ‘romantic’ time by the river. They were in no hurry to get there before me.
And there was the queue stretching back from the entrance in the wall – only two spaces were left and approximately four hours to wait before opening time, Herbón Monastery, Spain
It was nice and warm and there was plenty to see (photos below). People came to join the line, but were too late and left again – it was a little way into Padrón because it is a detour to get here.
Old friends met up and new ones were made while waiting, Herbón Monastery, SpainThe church of the missionaries, Herbón Monastery, Spain
The young couple sauntered in after quite a while, but were too late and went off again.
Seriously old trees – all knarled and full of character, Herbón Monastery garden, Spain
There were others with injuries far worse than mine. A small group decided to leave, calling a taxi, whereupon exactly the same number arrived late (after others had already turned away) and so they found that there were spaces for them. It just goes to show!
French map (1648) on the wall of the reception area of the Monastery at Herbón, showing the many caminos converging on Santiago de Compostella.
Eventually, after a light shower, we were let in and welcomed by the volunteers. It was very efficient. The accomodation was in small cubicles of two bunks each, ranged along a corridor. (That’s my mess on the bottom bunk!)
Franciscan Seminary 1891-1991. This monastery is in danger of being shut down because there are no young monks coming into the Order, but they do a lot in the village, so it is hoped that it will survive. Herbón Monastery, near Padron, Spain
After a break in which I spent time meditating in the sun, we were taken on a tour of the chapel, cloisters and other parts of the building. This is practically compulsory and very interesting. The monks were missionaries, sent overseas to spread the word of God, and those left at home ran a school on the premises.
The sparkling golden altar, Herbón Monastery, SpainI loved these little angel heads with wings holding up the column, Herbón Monastery, SpainCloisters, Herbón Monastery, SpainStone statue and cross in the garden, Herbón Monastery, Spain
The large garden sports vineries (there is no-one to keep them going now, sadly), kitchen garden (partly in use, as far as I could see), water which has been tested and found to have lots of minerals in it so is truly healing, and various levels and attractive sections making it really interesting.
A place of meditation, Herbón Monastery, SpainView from the garden, Herbón Monastery, SpainHealing waters at Herbón Monastery, SpainDry, brown Autumn leaves and sweet chestnut prickles bursting openUntended vines, Herbón Monastery, SpainWall shrine and fountain, Herbón Monastery, Spain
To reward us for such a long guided tour and talk, we were given a good meal (included in the 6 euro price) around long canteen tables and there was a lovely atmosphere there.
Note: There is always a decent vegetarian option at the shared meals on the Caminos
Camino Portuguese da Costa – Days 9 and 10, September 27th – 29th 2019
Mos to Redondela
I walked along avenues of acers only just starting to turn yellow where it rained slightly (as it is prone to do in Galicia)
Walking this Camino was a prize for the long year I had spent writing my first book and the exciting but stressful dash to submit the manuscript to the publishers by the end of August. I had sat down – researching, typing while travelling – and eschewed long distance walks for that reason. Today, as I was ambling along, I realised that there was now some space into which a new project might come – and it came! The great Camino de Santiago forum is absolutely chock-a-block full of interesting information about pilgrimage in Spain and elsewhere. There is a mind boggling amount of collective knowledge in it, submitted by enthusiasts from all over the world, and when I am on the road I often consult it for hostel information, path directions and more. My searches the previous evening had led me to interesting topics related to my previous explorations and that then trickled through my mind as I made my way towards Redondela. Walking is such a great way to allow those creative thoughts to flourish!
Typical Camino de Santiago stone with the familiar shell and an unidentifiable coat of arms with a stemmed rose and daisiesAnother sign of grief? Stone statue of a woman covering her eye
Food and Wine on the Portuguese Camino
Pulpo (Octopus ), a Galician delicacy, on a stall outside
What, you may ask, can a vegetarian eat while walking the Portugues Camino, when meat is such an important part of the local diet? You can usually find eggs and vegetables (though they are often cooked rather longer than we might do them in the UK) and of course salad galore, though if we are walking out of season we might find we are served the packaged iceberg which is familiar back home. What we can never eat unless we beg at someone’s front door (no, I haven’t done this myself!) are the wonderful tall greens which so many grow in their front gardens, but which are not to be found, not in local shops, supermarkets or restaurants.
Tall brassicas growing in O Cruceiro, Spain
So, look out for Padron peppers (very small and grilled ones which are not really from Padron, but more of that in another blog), caldo verde (warming cabbage soup) which is usually not made with a meat stock but check, and also be careful that they don’t garnish it with sausage; bread and olive oil of course; roasted chestnuts (see below); and you most definitely can eat pastel de nata (the most delicious bijou custard tarts) as long as you are not vegan because they have eggs in them.
Lea and friend, Vila Nova de Milfontes, Portugal (not on the Camino Portuguese da Costa) with whom I shared 100s of roasted chestnuts – yum!
Fun Fact
Conventual deserts: Traditionally, eggs whites were used in convents to starch the priest clothing and the nun’s robes. Left with the egg yolks and time to kill, the nuns had to get creative. Making the most delicious and famous desserts became a tradition in Portugal.” From Authentic Food Quest
Field pumpkins. Although there were squash everywhere in the fields and gardens, I never saw them offered on a menu
If you are pescetarian (that is, you also eat fish, but not meat) you will have no trouble because Portugal is well known for sardines (although very attractive, don’t buy the smartly decorated tins as they are many times more expensive than the ordinary ones – make sure they are Portuguese) in the smaller shops or supermarkets); bacalhau (salted cod fish – variable, some stupendous, some just salty), octopus (pulpo, see above) and other delicacies from the ocean.
Moss Rose (Portulaca gradiflora, a semi-succluent) with red and yellow flowers indicating a mixed seed bed. Thanks to the helpful folk on houzz.com for identifying this for me
Finally, these stages of the Camino Portuguese are close by the Soutomaior, one of the sub-regions of the DO (denominacion origen) the vineyards of the high-quality, light-bodied white Albarino wine, produced by the Rias Baizas.
The Concelo (government offices) de Redondela, SpainAlbergue de peregrinos rennovated 16th century Casa da Tore, Redondela, Spain
There are 42 beds, it costs 6 euros, opens between 1-10pm and is open all year round.
View from the hostel window with a large blue and yellow camino sign, typical stone balconies and showing the narrow streets of the town, Redondela, Spain
Because the room opened straight into the middle of the town, it was extremely loud with revellers late into the night and early hours of the morning.
Metal bunks in crowded rooms, full to bursting in late September 2019, Xunta (municipal) hostel, Redondela, Spain
Redondela to Pontevedra (almost)
This was a good day despite my foot /feet still hurting. Such wonderful scenery and sun! That’s why I love to walk like this – to be in nature, to be surrounded by beauty, to be amazed, step-by-step.
This part of the Camino Portuguese, Spain
I left just after dawn, the lights still on under the aches of the bridge.
Heavy mist in the valley making the view mysterious and other-worldly, Camino Portuguese, SpainWater stop – natural, fresh water from the fountain at the junction, Camino Portuguese, SpainShells and other Camino paraphernalia, Camino Portuguese, SpainLooking down onto Rio Verdugo and Arcade, SpainEucalyptus catching the morning sunDown now to a welcome stall set up by local weekend volunteers offering tea and snacks (for donations). You can see the partially wet ground from the regular showers of rain, Spain
Saturdays are very busy days on the Camino with cyclists and local walkers as well as those who are making their way to Santiago de Compostella.
A town which celebrates the Camino and its pilgrims – silhouette cut-outs on the walls of this hostel, SpainA way-side grotto with Camino knick-knacks, SpainThe first horreo (stone shed for storing maize over the winter, on stilts to keep out the rats and the wet) with plenty of religious protection, SpainI crossed the Verdugo river by the Ponte Sampaio (or San Paio) bridge getting a good view of a more modern one further along, Arcade, Spain
The Puente (Ponte) San Piao: ‘It is here where a decisive battle for Spain’s independence was held against Napoleon’s troops in 1809 which ended the five month French occupation.’ from Santiago-Compostella.net
Another horreo – blue skies at this stage and so it was hot for the climb up the hill on the other side of the river, Arcade, SpainBack into the countryside and more paths made up of large stones which would be running with water and very slippery if the weather hadn’t been fine, SpainPine and other mixed woods, trees towering over me, SpainDeep in the woods was a rare peregrina (female pilgrim) statue and lots of shells. There was no difficulty finding the way, SpainPlastic chairs ready for resting and enjoying the dappled surroundings, Galicia, SpainI spotted huge slugs of all shapes and sizes amongst the sweet chestnut prickles and ferns, Galicia, SpainIf you look carefully, you will find little mementoes in the rocks, Camino Portuguese de Santiago, SpainActual crowds of pilgrims in great chattering groups, Camino Portuguese, SpainI crossed the Fatima Camino here: Santiago in yellow, Fatima in blue
The final stage of this day’s walking through the Valley of Tomeza and Salcedo, took me through a riparian area (a wetland by a river). The ground is peaty in places (as in Scotland – there are many connections between Galicia and Scotland), moist forests of alder and willow, oak, ash, birch, chestnut, brambles (blackberries) and even cherry blossom (Prunus padus or Cerdeiro de acio in Galician) and hops can be found (as in my native Kent). The sign said that the presence of otters is a sign of good water quality. It certainly looked bubbling and clear, but sadly, I didn’t see an otter.
Ponte da Condesa (stone bridge) over the Rio Tomeza, near Pontevedra, Spain
This last part was particularly gorgeous – green, verdant and peaceful apart from the trickling water and birds chanting around me.
Rio Tomeza near Pontevedra, Spain
Accomodation: The previous evening I had come across an air bnb called Casa A Grade online and tried to find out if there was a space, unsuccessfully. I had even phoned and the woman said they did not have any single beds. Well, as I was walking through these wonderful woods, there was a hostel sign. I crossed the quaint bridge and wound my way through what turned out to the the end of the garden. There I came across a plunge pool glittering in the hot sun and it was the same place. And they did have a single bed for me!
I lay in the garden, dipped into cool water, washed and hung out my clothes (which dried in the scorching sun), bought vegetables from their garden plus bread and prepared food for the evening meal. Breakfast was included in what i think was the 25 euro price. All the beds were full – a family room was taken by a mother and father who were accompanying their daughter to a Rhythmic Gymnastics competition – she was a champion), and 4 singles (2 pilgrims and 2 holiday makers) along a corridor and separated by curtains. There is one bathroom and everything was clean. The owners were very friendly and helpful.
Finally, it was only 40 minutes into Pontevedra, but that was another day!
Camino Portuguese da Costa – Days 3 and 4, September 21st – 22nd 2019.
Vila do Conde
20 kms from Porto; 24.95 kms to Esposende
Admiring the Santa Clara Roman aqueduct in Vila do Conde which had 999 arches and, at 4 kms, is the second longest in PortugalTypical cobbled street, Vila do CondeMercat cross Vila do CondeSlightly dilapidated but charming architectural features, Vila do CondeSimilar blue and white tiles to the ones I saw in Porto, Vila do CondeI like interesting roundabout sculptures: Monument to Education and teachers, Benguiados Street, Vila do CondeI am not sure what the name is of this pink church, Vila do CondeDrying seaweed under white cloths on the beach – I could see these huge piles all along the coast as I walkedIdiosyncratic beach bar sign with the Camino shells as decorationHottentot or Sour Fig (Carpobrotus edulis)It was so very wet! All the rucksacks in the cafe where I went to shelter, were covered up. Only a few of my things got properly damp
It was in this cafe that I accepted a cap and guide book which belonged to a woman who I had been seeing at hostels along the way. I assumed I would see here agin and so took it with me for her. Guess what? I carried them to Santiago but never did see her.
Esposende/Marinhas
Link to the municipal hostel in Esposende/Marinhas. The Albergue San Miguel is one of the hostels that you have to walk through the town and almost out the other side to reach. The building in front, nearest the main road, is not the hostel but the Red Cross centre (the 2 organisations are connected through the Marinhas council) and the people there are used to exhausted pilgrims trekking through by mistake!
Nearby, and within very easy earshot, was an annual festival venue with bands, demonstrations of rural activities such as threshing, and more food than you might have ever seen in one long hall. People flocked from far and wide to sit around long tables in large family groups and have a good time. It was not possible to sleep, so as they say, when you can’t beat em, join em!
The lively band ‘gieing it laldy’ – heartily playing traditional Portuguese musicWomen in folk costumes outside preparing for a demonstration of old-fashioned farming methods
I walked through Monte, Lugar de Cima, Outeiro, Barros Sao Fins, Santo Amaro, Estrada,
Igreja Matriz do Sao Miguel Arcanjo das Marinhas. Leaving the next morningThe archangel Michael with his sword and a huge phallic snake ie Satan, statue MarinhasPassion fruit (Passiflora) flowerSao Joao (Saint John) do Monte cross and chapel, Esposende area, PortugalInto the countryside, interior PortugalLemon tree, PortugalPokeweed (Phylotacca americana) also known as pokeberry. It has a poisonous root and mature stalks, although you can eat the young stalks if properly cooked. The berries have a red dye which is used to colour wine, sweets and clothCastor oil plant, ricinus communis (because it’s red?)A typical Portuguese dwelling in the distanceMorning Glory (Ipomoea)A woman leading goats to pastureThe grapes were being harvested all along the way and as many hung over the edges of the fences and supports, I sampled a rich and lucious few!African Milkweed (Gomphocarpus physocarpus) also known as hairy balls milkweed! If you look closely, you will see that there are small pale, milk-white flowers at the end of the stems. It attracts the Monarch butterfly in Australia and Madeira
I am reliably informed that this plant is one of the food plants for the Monarch Butterfly, in Australia. They prefer this, and another alien, over the native milkweeds.
Igreja do Sao Pedro Fins (Peter), Belinho, PortugalVirgin and Son with 3 supplicating little ones at her feet, Igreja do Sao Pedro Fins (Peter), Belinho, PortugalCapela de Nossa Senora dos Remedios, Estrada, Braga, PortugalInto the Oak (Quercus) woodsThe bracken (ferns) were starting to turn brown, but it smelled fresh and woodyAt some point in these beautiful woods I made a long steep climb behind a man who was walking fast
The way was made up of large boulders and unevenly sized stones, some wet. I went fast to keep up with the man in front which was exhilarating, but I wonder if this is where I twisted my ankle without quite noticing.
There were pools of inviting water, so down went the rucksack, off came the clothes and oh! it was so refreshingIdyllic settingWater ways Portugal
And then the heavens opened. Before I could find a place to stop and take my backpack off to cover it and myself (even though I had, minutes earlier, been immersed in cool waters), I was soaked through. It was torrential. And steep, uphill. At the top I sheltered in a bus stop and watched the rain running down in torrents. More and more pilgrims joined me in that tiny space. There was a mobile shop on the Green opposite, but it was a bar – alcohol only, no hot drinks.
Igreja Sao Pedro (Peter), BelinhoHowever, the clouds rolled away and I steamed quietly as I walked into a sunnier landscapeMosteiro (monastery) de Sao Romao de Neiva, PortugalKiwi fruit (Actinidia deliciosa) hanging from their vines
Despite their appearance, I was assured that they would not be ripe for eating until December at least.
Igreja Parochial de Chafe, Viana de Castelo, PortugalA long downhill stretch beside resting pilgrims
The way into Viana do Castelo is across the Limia via a long, metal bridge. The hikers share it with the vehicles, although there is a narrow shaft where we walked. I could see the water’s of the Lima River far below through the grid I walked on, each step clanging loudly. The width of one person, there was no possibility of stopping to rest and, as I was limping by this time I must have slowed because I was aware of a queue of others behind me, all having to go at my pace. I kept doggedly on with no choice.
Funicular up to the castle, Viana do Castelo, Portugal
I allowed myself to be persuaded to take an extra trip that evening despite my sore feet. What a mistake! Although the sights were inspiring, my physical health suffered and I paid for it for many weeks to come.
Sanctuary of Santa Luzia, Viana do Castelo, Portugal
Designed by Miguel Ventura Terra, this church venerates St. Lucy of Syracuse.
View of the Atlantic Ocean from the top of the hill, Viana do Castelo, PortugalAnother view, this time of the River Lima and southwards from where I had come to Praia (beach) do Cabadelo, Viana do Castelo, PortugalInside the Sanctuary Santa Luzia, Viana do Castelo, PortugalThe stunning dome of the Sanctuary Santa Luzia, Viana do Castelo, Portugal
I am indebted to the people on the houzz.com forum who have an immense wealth of knowledge about plants and are so willing to help.
If you have also walked the Portuguese Camino, did you stay in the same hostels as I did? Please feel free to share your experiences in a comment below.
Walking without a donkey 