Vila do Conde to Viana do Castelo: Camino Portuguese
Camino Portuguese da Costa – Days 3 and 4, September 21st – 22nd 2019.
Vila do Conde
20 kms from Porto; 24.95 kms to Esposende
Admiring the Santa Clara Roman aqueduct in Vila do Conde which had 999 arches and, at 4 kms, is the second longest in PortugalTypical cobbled street, Vila do CondeMercat cross Vila do CondeSlightly dilapidated but charming architectural features, Vila do CondeSimilar blue and white tiles to the ones I saw in Porto, Vila do CondeI like interesting roundabout sculptures: Monument to Education and teachers, Benguiados Street, Vila do CondeI am not sure what the name is of this pink church, Vila do CondeDrying seaweed under white cloths on the beach – I could see these huge piles all along the coast as I walkedIdiosyncratic beach bar sign with the Camino shells as decorationHottentot or Sour Fig (Carpobrotus edulis)It was so very wet! All the rucksacks in the cafe where I went to shelter, were covered up. Only a few of my things got properly damp
It was in this cafe that I accepted a cap and guide book which belonged to a woman who I had been seeing at hostels along the way. I assumed I would see here agin and so took it with me for her. Guess what? I carried them to Santiago but never did see her.
Esposende/Marinhas
Link to the municipal hostel in Esposende/Marinhas. The Albergue San Miguel is one of the hostels that you have to walk through the town and almost out the other side to reach. The building in front, nearest the main road, is not the hostel but the Red Cross centre (the 2 organisations are connected through the Marinhas council) and the people there are used to exhausted pilgrims trekking through by mistake!
Nearby, and within very easy earshot, was an annual festival venue with bands, demonstrations of rural activities such as threshing, and more food than you might have ever seen in one long hall. People flocked from far and wide to sit around long tables in large family groups and have a good time. It was not possible to sleep, so as they say, when you can’t beat em, join em!
The lively band ‘gieing it laldy’ – heartily playing traditional Portuguese musicWomen in folk costumes outside preparing for a demonstration of old-fashioned farming methods
I walked through Monte, Lugar de Cima, Outeiro, Barros Sao Fins, Santo Amaro, Estrada,
Igreja Matriz do Sao Miguel Arcanjo das Marinhas. Leaving the next morningThe archangel Michael with his sword and a huge phallic snake ie Satan, statue MarinhasPassion fruit (Passiflora) flowerSao Joao (Saint John) do Monte cross and chapel, Esposende area, PortugalInto the countryside, interior PortugalLemon tree, PortugalPokeweed (Phylotacca americana) also known as pokeberry. It has a poisonous root and mature stalks, although you can eat the young stalks if properly cooked. The berries have a red dye which is used to colour wine, sweets and clothCastor oil plant, ricinus communis (because it’s red?)A typical Portuguese dwelling in the distanceMorning Glory (Ipomoea)A woman leading goats to pastureThe grapes were being harvested all along the way and as many hung over the edges of the fences and supports, I sampled a rich and lucious few!African Milkweed (Gomphocarpus physocarpus) also known as hairy balls milkweed! If you look closely, you will see that there are small pale, milk-white flowers at the end of the stems. It attracts the Monarch butterfly in Australia and Madeira
I am reliably informed that this plant is one of the food plants for the Monarch Butterfly, in Australia. They prefer this, and another alien, over the native milkweeds.
Igreja do Sao Pedro Fins (Peter), Belinho, PortugalVirgin and Son with 3 supplicating little ones at her feet, Igreja do Sao Pedro Fins (Peter), Belinho, PortugalCapela de Nossa Senora dos Remedios, Estrada, Braga, PortugalInto the Oak (Quercus) woodsThe bracken (ferns) were starting to turn brown, but it smelled fresh and woodyAt some point in these beautiful woods I made a long steep climb behind a man who was walking fast
The way was made up of large boulders and unevenly sized stones, some wet. I went fast to keep up with the man in front which was exhilarating, but I wonder if this is where I twisted my ankle without quite noticing.
There were pools of inviting water, so down went the rucksack, off came the clothes and oh! it was so refreshingIdyllic settingWater ways Portugal
And then the heavens opened. Before I could find a place to stop and take my backpack off to cover it and myself (even though I had, minutes earlier, been immersed in cool waters), I was soaked through. It was torrential. And steep, uphill. At the top I sheltered in a bus stop and watched the rain running down in torrents. More and more pilgrims joined me in that tiny space. There was a mobile shop on the Green opposite, but it was a bar – alcohol only, no hot drinks.
Igreja Sao Pedro (Peter), BelinhoHowever, the clouds rolled away and I steamed quietly as I walked into a sunnier landscapeMosteiro (monastery) de Sao Romao de Neiva, PortugalKiwi fruit (Actinidia deliciosa) hanging from their vines
Despite their appearance, I was assured that they would not be ripe for eating until December at least.
Igreja Parochial de Chafe, Viana de Castelo, PortugalA long downhill stretch beside resting pilgrims
The way into Viana do Castelo is across the Limia via a long, metal bridge. The hikers share it with the vehicles, although there is a narrow shaft where we walked. I could see the water’s of the Lima River far below through the grid I walked on, each step clanging loudly. The width of one person, there was no possibility of stopping to rest and, as I was limping by this time I must have slowed because I was aware of a queue of others behind me, all having to go at my pace. I kept doggedly on with no choice.
Funicular up to the castle, Viana do Castelo, Portugal
I allowed myself to be persuaded to take an extra trip that evening despite my sore feet. What a mistake! Although the sights were inspiring, my physical health suffered and I paid for it for many weeks to come.
Sanctuary of Santa Luzia, Viana do Castelo, Portugal
Designed by Miguel Ventura Terra, this church venerates St. Lucy of Syracuse.
View of the Atlantic Ocean from the top of the hill, Viana do Castelo, PortugalAnother view, this time of the River Lima and southwards from where I had come to Praia (beach) do Cabadelo, Viana do Castelo, PortugalInside the Sanctuary Santa Luzia, Viana do Castelo, PortugalThe stunning dome of the Sanctuary Santa Luzia, Viana do Castelo, Portugal
I am indebted to the people on the houzz.com forum who have an immense wealth of knowledge about plants and are so willing to help.
If you have also walked the Portuguese Camino, did you stay in the same hostels as I did? Please feel free to share your experiences in a comment below.
Walking without a donkey 