January 4, 2020 – Walking without a donkey

Camino Portuguese da Costa – Days 3 and 4, September 21st – 22nd 2019.

Vila do Conde

20 kms from Porto; 24.95 kms to Esposende

urban landscaping Portugal — Typical cobbled street, Vila do Conde

Slightly dilapidated but charming architectural features, Vila do Conde

web link to Porto blog — Similar blue and white tiles to the ones I saw in Porto, Vila do Conde

stone monument to education Vila do Conde Portugal — I like interesting roundabout sculptures: Monument to Education and teachers, Benguiados Street, Vila do Conde

Portguese street scene — I am not sure what the name is of this pink church, Vila do Conde

Drying seaweed under white cloths on the beach – I could see these huge piles all along the coast as I walked

Idiosyncratic beach bar sign with the Camino shells as decoration

plant identification — Hottentot or Sour Fig (Carpobrotus edulis)

It was so very wet! All the rucksacks in the cafe where I went to shelter, were covered up. Only a few of my things got properly damp

It was in this cafe that I accepted a cap and guide book which belonged to a woman who I had been seeing at hostels along the way. I assumed I would see here agin and so took it with me for her. Guess what? I carried them to Santiago but never did see her.

Esposende/Marinhas

Link to the municipal hostel in Esposende/Marinhas. The Albergue San Miguel is one of the hostels that you have to walk through the town and almost out the other side to reach. The building in front, nearest the main road, is not the hostel but the Red Cross centre (the 2 organisations are connected through the Marinhas council) and the people there are used to exhausted pilgrims trekking through by mistake!

Nearby, and within very easy earshot, was an annual festival venue with bands, demonstrations of rural activities such as threshing, and more food than you might have ever seen in one long hall. People flocked from far and wide to sit around long tables in large family groups and have a good time. It was not possible to sleep, so as they say, when you can’t beat em, join em!

Portuguese folk band instruments — The lively band ‘gieing it laldy’ – heartily playing traditional Portuguese music

folk costume and props Portugal — Women in folk costumes outside preparing for a demonstration of old-fashioned farming methods

I walked through Monte, Lugar de Cima, Outeiro, Barros Sao Fins, Santo Amaro, Estrada,

church Sain Michael Marinhas — Igreja Matriz do Sao Miguel Arcanjo das Marinhas. Leaving the next morning

Sculpture Archangel Michael — The archangel Michael with his sword and a huge phallic snake ie Satan, statue Marinhas

detail passion flower — Passion fruit (Passiflora) flower

Sao Joao church and cross Esposende — Sao Joao (Saint John) do Monte cross and chapel, Esposende area, Portugal

Portuguese landscape — Into the countryside, interior Portugal

Detailed plant information — Pokeweed (Phylotacca americana) also known as pokeberry. It has a poisonous root and mature stalks, although you can eat the young stalks if properly cooked. The berries have a red dye which is used to colour wine, sweets and cloth

detail of plant — Morning Glory (Ipomoea)

working woman with goats Portugal — A woman leading goats to pasture

grapes vines Portugal — The grapes were being harvested all along the way and as many hung over the edges of the fences and supports, I sampled a rich and lucious few!

detailed plant description — African Milkweed (Gomphocarpus physocarpus) also known as hairy balls milkweed! If you look closely, you will see that there are small pale, milk-white flowers at the end of the stems. It attracts the Monarch butterfly in Australia and Madeira

I am reliably informed that this plant is one of the food plants for the Monarch Butterfly, in Australia. They prefer this, and another alien, over the native milkweeds.

church cross Portugal — Igreja do Sao Pedro Fins (Peter), Belinho, Portugal

detail church architecture Portugal — Virgin and Son with 3 supplicating little ones at her feet, Igreja do Sao Pedro Fins (Peter), Belinho, Portugal

architecture of Portugal — Capela de Nossa Senora dos Remedios, Estrada, Braga, Portugal

detail oak tree and acron in Portuguese woods — Into the Oak (Quercus) woods

rural landscpae Portugal — The bracken (ferns) were starting to turn brown, but it smelled fresh and woody

woods Portugal — At some point in these beautiful woods I made a long steep climb behind a man who was walking fast

The way was made up of large boulders and unevenly sized stones, some wet. I went fast to keep up with the man in front which was exhilarating, but I wonder if this is where I twisted my ankle without quite noticing.

Portuguese woods and pool — There were pools of inviting water, so down went the rucksack, off came the clothes and oh! it was so refreshing

And then the heavens opened. Before I could find a place to stop and take my backpack off to cover it and myself (even though I had, minutes earlier, been immersed in cool waters), I was soaked through. It was torrential. And steep, uphill. At the top I sheltered in a bus stop and watched the rain running down in torrents. More and more pilgrims joined me in that tiny space. There was a mobile shop on the Green opposite, but it was a bar – alcohol only, no hot drinks.

church Belinho Portugal — Igreja Sao Pedro (Peter), Belinho

Portuguese landscape and weather — However, the clouds rolled away and I steamed quietly as I walked into a sunnier landscape

monastery Sao — Mosteiro (monastery) de Sao Romao de Neiva, Portugal

detail of fruit and plant — Kiwi fruit (Actinidia deliciosa) hanging from their vines

Despite their appearance, I was assured that they would not be ripe for eating until December at least.

traditional Portuguese church — Igreja Parochial de Chafe, Viana de Castelo, Portugal

pilgrims woods Portugal — A long downhill stretch beside resting pilgrims

The way into Viana do Castelo is across the Limia via a long, metal bridge. The hikers share it with the vehicles, although there is a narrow shaft where we walked. I could see the water’s of the Lima River far below through the grid I walked on, each step clanging loudly. The width of one person, there was no possibility of stopping to rest and, as I was limping by this time I must have slowed because I was aware of a queue of others behind me, all having to go at my pace. I kept doggedly on with no choice.

funicular Viana do Castelo Portugal — Funicular up to the castle, Viana do Castelo, Portugal

I allowed myself to be persuaded to take an extra trip that evening despite my sore feet. What a mistake! Although the sights were inspiring, my physical health suffered and I paid for it for many weeks to come.

Santa Luzia Portugal — Sanctuary of Santa Luzia, Viana do Castelo, Portugal

vista Portual Viana do Castelo — View of the Atlantic Ocean from the top of the hill, Viana do Castelo, Portugal

vista Portugal Viana do Castelo — Another view, this time of the River Lima and southwards from where I had come to Praia (beach) do Cabadelo, Viana do Castelo, Portugal

stained glass windows santa Luzia Portugal — Inside the Sanctuary Santa Luzia, Viana do Castelo, Portugal

fresco roof detail Santa Luzia Portugal — The stunning dome of the Sanctuary Santa Luzia, Viana do Castelo, Portugal

I am indebted to the people on the houzz.com forum who have an immense wealth of knowledge about plants and are so willing to help.

Previous blog – days 1 and 2 Portuguese Camino Porto to Vila do Conde

Days 5 and 6 Viana do Castelo to La Guarda

If you have also walked the Portuguese Camino, did you stay in the same hostels as I did? Please feel free to share your experiences in a comment below.