Thessaloniki

June 2019

Icon in a little hut
Greek Orthodox religious street shrine, Achiropitos Church, Thessaloniki, Greece

I liked Thessaloníki. It’s a mixture of dusty urban streets with shops selling beach umbrellas, interesting portals, attractive heritage sights, a glittering seafront, and varied cultural delights.

People standing under tall metal umbrellas
Captivating umbrella sculpture being used for community gathering

One minute I was standing surprised in front of a shop that seemed to be only selling beach umbrellas, the next I spotted a woman behind one on a far away balcony.

I stopped off here partly to break my journey to the north, but mainly to meet Shiatsu practitioners and teachers.

Daphne, head of the Shiatsu Academy Thessaloníki

The Shiatsu Academy

Evening drinks with Marie-Helene and a yummy lunch with Daphne were both really satisfying exchanges. The joy of meeting others in my own, rather niche profession and being able to talk shop, knowing they speak the same language (Shiatsu I mean! I spoke French with one and English with the other) was delightful.

Sparrow perched on chair back
I had a chirpy visitor as I sipped my fizzy mineral water, and gazed at the shining sea over the top of my laptop

Doorways

Beautiful doorways abound.

Ornate orange door in a green wall with lamp outside
Copper bells outside a bar

I thought it was a church, but it turned out to be a night club! Thessaloniki, Greece

Door, steps and flowers
Someone’s front door – care and attention to detail make for everyday beauty here
Pink walls and green lattice doorway
A domestic front garden of contrasting colours
2 White columns with lattice work
Doric columns adorn this frontage. Thessaloniki, Greece

Hostel accommodation

There was WiFi at the Studio Arabas hostel where I stayed for 2 nights, on Satchouri. I booked through Hostelworld. It is steeply uphill and I didn’t have time to explore the Old Town that it is in because I was meeting people in the part nearer the sea where most of the monuments are – that’s a good trek down and climb back up so be warned.

Early morning street sceneI left early to walk the hour to the bus station and caught the morning sunlight, Thessaloniki

The hostel was clean, but not in a squeaky clean sort of way. I got some advice from the lovely Charlotte while I was there. Although you can’t do this at her place…

Tip

… It is always worth booking a hostel by phone or in person because you often get money off or a free breakfast. They save money on the fees they have to pay to the third party, the booking website.

White tents with book stalls

The book fair was on that day, Thessaloniki, Greece

Cafés

I was on my way to a meeting but needed a cup of tea. It was going to be an hour’s walk. Until, that is, I spied Vermilion.

Just my sort of place. Creative and friendly, good WiFi and recycled jewellery.

I was early and they were cleaning and preparing for the day, Vermilion, Thessaloníki, Greece

Old car on front of paper menu
The menu was handwritten in the front of an exercise book

Nearby are other nice places – a bakery, cheese shop and more.

Rings and necklaces

Recycled jewellery made by the owner
Outdoor restaurant with foliage
B café
People sitting at tables with drinks
Café full of young people including women playing backgammon

Local people resting in the shade

I was fascinated to glimpse women sewing and men and women sharing a drink in the shade.

10 men sit around a table

A group of men in the distance, taken with the zoom. They went back and forth through a door in the wall behind – I was so curious!

Women in black clothes chatting by trees
You can just about make out the women who had been keeping the church yard spic and span, taking a welcome break

Sewing shop women
She turned round and gave me a huge smile so I asked permission to snap

Churches

In Greece many people draw a cross on themselves when they see a church. A woman on the train did it as we whizzed past one. Later I saw a man walking a dog, doing the same thing .

Church steps and plants

The priest was just emerging as I crept around the lovely church near my hostel

Greek Orthodox Church, Thessaloniki, Greece

Columns

There are Classical Greek columns everywhere in Thessaloniki.

White fluted uprights above flight of steps

Ionic columns add finesse to the Cathedral, Thessaloniki, Greece

Ruins

Decorated brick arches
City walls
Soft coloured stone arch with blue sky and buildings visible through
Arch of Galerius, Thessaloniki, Greece

This ancient monument was built in 305 AD following the final victory of Emperor Galerius against the Persians.

Greek women dance around the pediment

Carvings from the arch

Apartment blocks and ancient walls

I liked the apartment blocks cheek by jowl with the ancient stone

Gardens

The sunken garden of the Greek Orthodox Church of St Demetrios

Everywhere there was marble – walls, floors, and columns of course!

Table and orchids
The marble basement of the B cafe at the Museum of Byzantine Culture

Other sights

Railings by the sea
Padlocks for peace
Men sitting on edge sea
Enjoying the sunset together
Musicians against setting sun
Trumpeter in silhouette
Red sculpture in front of building
Museum of Byzantine Culture
Reclining Greek figure
Greek Archeological Museum
Whitened stone memorial
Sarcophagus, part of the Field, House, Garden, Grave exhibition at the Archeological Museum

Trees and religious building
Church at night
Humorous street art
Graffiti
Man on horse on plinth
Alexander the Great. The spears are arranged in the formation from his best known battle
Monument
Woman of Pindos, 1940
Statue and author
An undressed version Emanuel Pappas (1772- 1821) and me with my clothes on. He was the leader of the Greek War of Independence.

Athens and Greece – getting from place to place

Getting Around

Travelling around Greece is straightforward. On this, my second solo trip, I flew to Athens overnight with Air Baltic (on time, efficient) from Edinburgh; walked and took the metro in the capital; and then went to Thessaloniki, Komotini in the north, and the village of Proskinites by bus to see my friends’ new born baby. There I either walked or was driven in the jeep. I returned to Thessaloníki the same way, and then flew to Paris with Transavia for 39 euros.

Morning sun on religious building
Greek Orthodox Church, Proskinites, Greece

Travel around Athens

Crossing the road: Wherever you are, beware the motorised scooters – either being driven wildly with one or more people on them, or abandoned in the middle of pavements.

Scooter on pavement
Looks tame sitting on its own like that I know, but add 1+ humans and it becomes lethal!

Like everywhere else in Europe, look left before crossing the road!

Old urns in terracotta
Museum antiquities exhibited in Acropolis Metro station

The Athens Metro

Metros are clean, cool in temperature, crowded at rush hour as anywhere in Europe, efficient, regular and all stations are announced in English as well as Greek. Ticket machines are quite easy to use and you can choose to view the screen in English. Tickets cost 2.70 euros for 2 tickets and go down in price if you buy more. You can use one anywhere within 90 minutes, which I didn’t realise and so wasted a second one on a bus connection. Make sure you register your ticket on the machine both in and out of the metro, and in (but not out) on the buses.

Ancient statuary
Reclining male nude – statue in Acropolis Metro station, Athens, Greece

Trains, buses and travel out of Athens

I took the Athens to Thessaloniki train, even though there is a lot of bad press to be found on the internet about trains in Greece. The service was clean and smooth (“better than the UK, like Italy” said my neighbour!) You can book online via the OSE website.

Station platform with book store
Athens mainline train station, Greece

Bus travel

For the rest of Greece, the bus is better, but finding information and booking by website is hard work if you don’t read Greek. The main page of the main Greek bus company website (ktelmacedonia.gr) comes up in English on my phone, but the list of places does not and anyway, even looking up the Greek spelling for the places didn’t mean that they appeared on the list although they do have buses which go there! On my laptop, the website was impossible for me to operate. If you are stuck, you could try asking a friendly waitress as they usually speak great English and can often be really helpful making calls for you.

A round tower and a metal serrated monument
Interesting juxtaposition of satellite tower and saw sculpture, Thessaloniki, Greece

I have discovered this since writing the above : Bus tickets pagebus website KTEL Macedonia – new e tickets available. I am leaving both sets of information so that you have 2 options. Please leave a comment if you find the best way and that will help others. Thank you.

You can also buy ferry tickets, and transport or store luggage through KTEL Macedonia (as above).

The police boarded the Komotini – Thessaloniki bus, looked at random people’s passports, and took 3 men off this morning who had no papers.

Green fertile countryside flashes by through train window
On the way to Thessaloniki by train

Which bus station?

It is therefore best to book at the bus station (KTEL has 2 bus stations in Athens: Kifissos and Liossion. Note that when it asks you which one you want to leave from, it also includes ‘Pireus, Athens’ which is actually half an hour away by car so you don’t want that unless you happen to be staying near there). Alternatively you can ring up: I got a very nice man on the phone who spoke manageable English and he took my name and gave me the information and advice I needed. ( When I got there a few days later and went to buy the ticket, he introduced himself to me saying it was he who I had spoken to – what service!) There is a 25 per cent discount in advance which is hard if you are making spontaneous decisions.

Rural scene with terracotta roof
The Greek countryside between Athens and Thessaloniki

Other

There is no bla bla car (online car sharing in France, Spain etc) here in Greece. There are regular tolls along the motorways – between 3-13 euros depending on the distance. See below for other people’s blogs about travelling in Greece.

Bus Athens to Thessaloniki 39 euros one way, 59 euros return (note that the English translation says ‘refund’ instead of ‘return’!

A round old stone building by the sea
The White Tower, Thessaloniki, Greece

23 euros bus Komotini to Thessaloniki (6 hours)

2 euros X1 bus Thessaloniki (dome) Macedonia bus station to airport. Every half hour. Buy ticket from kiosk by bus stop.Very crowded. 40 – 60 minutes.

1.50 euros bus Proskinites to Komotini

Here is a good Athens Guide https://www.nomadicmatt.com/travel-guides/greece-travel-tips/#getaround