Athens – Walking without a donkey

Tinos and Chora town

May 2023

Introduction

I thought I might take a break after teaching Shiatsu and giving supervision in Athens, so I looked up islands which were easy to get to from the capital and typed the word ‘pilgrimage’ into the search engine as a starting point. Tinos came up immediately. It’s not only a vital place of pilgrimage for Greek people, but it’s also famous for its dovecots (see photo at the end of this blog), which I have been studying for a few years now. To Tinos I had to go!

Map of Greece showing the location of Tinos in relationship to Athens

A sacred island of pilgrimage, Tinos is one of the Cyclades, and has a deep history that is crucial to Greece herself. Since the 7th century, a feast has taken place there in honour of the Dormition of the Virgin Mary (her passing from the earthly state). Then, in 1823, two years after the Greek War of Independence had started, a nun called Pelagia found the Holy icon of the Annunciation of the Panagia in a field. Considered a divine omen for the Greek Revolution, a shrine / church was founded to coincide with the agricultural calendar on the island, and a festival was established on 15 August to which women and men flock each year.

In the first [of several chapels at the Shrine] is a holy spring, where pilgrims collect water which has powers of fertility and cures sickness. According to tradition, the well was found during the excavations in search of the icon. The well was dry. On the day the church’s cornerstone was laid, it filled up with water. The source is seen as a miracle, and the chapel of the holy water is called the “Life-Giving Spring.”

Evy Johanne Haaland

Evy Johanne Haaland, a Norwegian researcher (Dr/PhD, history) and government scholar, writes here about Palagia, and the ritual that women through the ages have performed – climbing up the steep hill from the sea to the shrine on their hands and knees, sometimes with a child on their back.

Greek women are strong and active persons …, thus paralleling the divine Panagia.

Evy Johanne Haaland

Shrine to the Panagia, Chora, Tinos, Greece

Practicalities

Chora is the main town of the island, also known as Tinos, and is where the ferry arrives and leaves from Athens. I took the ferry to and from Rafina (not far from Athens – take the inexpensive KTEL bus).

The town is well stocked and bustling with pretty, narrow streets, a long waterfront (including the port) and steep climbs to the Panagia shrine.

There is a good bus service across the island, but NOT on Sundays and I didn’t find it easy to get information about when they run.

Café

Recommended book café: Antilalos, Fr. Paximadi & Afentouli, 84200 Chora, Tinos. The owner and other staff were so very kind to me. I arrived on a Sunday and had booked an air bnb at the opposite end of the island – too far even for me to walk in one afternoon (though I walked from Pyrgos to Panormos which was wonderful). They made phone calls on my behalf and really helped me out. There were no taxis because, of course it was some sort of festival and so everyone was celebrating with family. I started to walk, but it was far too hot at midday, so in the end they arranged for a taxi driver they knew to come on his day off from another village and pick me up. He took me to Pyrgos – more than three quarters of the way there, and I was really grateful.

Antilalos Café in Chora, Tinos, Greece

Accomodation

I stayed at the Pension Selenti which I would recommend.

Evening view of Chora town from the Pension Selenti, Tinos, Greece

Old Weaving School, Chora

“Zarifios Vocational School (Βιοτεχνική Σχολή Τήνου Υφαντήριο) is a legacy of the Zarifis family originating from Constantinople. Since 1898, Zarifios School has been a reminder of the gratitude of the family of banker Nikolaos Zarifis towards the governess of his children, who took them to the safe environment of Tenos (sic), when riots broke out in the Constantinople. The school emphasized in the traditional weaving art supporting women and society in adverse conditions. Today, 200 years later, it still continues to have a presence by supporting the School and textile workshops.” Description from thehouse.gr website

Archaeological Museum

The Archaeological Museum is worth a visit.

Built in the early 60s by the architect Charalambos Bouras, the Archaeological Museum of Tinos contains finds from Chora, the main town, as well as the hill of Exombourgo, local villages, and the Sanctuary of Poseidon. I particularly enjoyed the little courtyard with its bodyless legs and lace-like mosaic.

Archaeological Museum, Chora, Tinos, Greece

Artist’s Residency and Maria Valela

There was an Artist’s Residency taking place on the island when I was there, and I was particularly pleased to meet Maria Valela, a weaver, who gave an inspiring demonstration at the Old Weaving School in Chora, and invited me to accompany her to a local women’s knitting and weaving group that she was visiting. In return I offered her Shiatsu.

“The island is widely recognised for its marble tradition and was home to some of the most widely revered Greek artists of the 19th and 20th centuries.” from Kirki Projects page

Various photos of Maria and the knitting / crochet group, Chora, Tinos, Greece

The Inherited Earth artist residency programme was part of the Fe26 project a collective research program by the NWMW NPO team 2023. “The Fe26 project brings together an interdisciplinary group of people to exchange knowledge and practices around metal as matter, material, and object in conjunction with locus, crafts and identity. In this aspect, the NWMW team has envisioned along with curator Christos Artemis “The inherited earth” Fe26 residency.” ARTrabbit.com

Links

The second in this series of blogs about Tinos is Tinos and Kionia

Map and walks by Desired landscapes

Secret Tinos blog

Greece

Athens and Greece – getting from place to place

Getting Around

Travelling around Greece is straightforward. On this, my second solo trip, I flew to Athens overnight with Air Baltic (on time, efficient) from Edinburgh; walked and took the metro in the capital; and then went to Thessaloniki, Komotini in the north, and the village of Proskinites by bus to see my friends’ new born baby. There I either walked or was driven in the jeep. I returned to Thessaloníki the same way, and then flew to Paris with Transavia for 39 euros.

Morning sun on religious building — Greek Orthodox Church, Proskinites, Greece

Travel around Athens

Crossing the road: Wherever you are, beware the motorised scooters – either being driven wildly with one or more people on them, or abandoned in the middle of pavements.

Scooter on pavement — Looks tame sitting on its own like that I know, but add 1+ humans and it becomes lethal!

Like everywhere else in Europe, look left before crossing the road!

Old urns in terracotta — Museum antiquities exhibited in Acropolis Metro station

The Athens Metro

Metros are clean, cool in temperature, crowded at rush hour as anywhere in Europe, efficient, regular and all stations are announced in English as well as Greek. Ticket machines are quite easy to use and you can choose to view the screen in English. Tickets cost 2.70 euros for 2 tickets and go down in price if you buy more. You can use one anywhere within 90 minutes, which I didn’t realise and so wasted a second one on a bus connection. Make sure you register your ticket on the machine both in and out of the metro, and in (but not out) on the buses.

Ancient statuary — Reclining male nude – statue in Acropolis Metro station, Athens, Greece

Trains, buses and travel out of Athens

I took the Athens to Thessaloniki train, even though there is a lot of bad press to be found on the internet about trains in Greece. The service was clean and smooth (“better than the UK, like Italy” said my neighbour!) You can book online via the OSE website.

Station platform with book store — Athens mainline train station, Greece

Bus travel

For the rest of Greece, the bus is better, but finding information and booking by website is hard work if you don’t read Greek. The main page of the main Greek bus company website (ktelmacedonia.gr) comes up in English on my phone, but the list of places does not and anyway, even looking up the Greek spelling for the places didn’t mean that they appeared on the list although they do have buses which go there! On my laptop, the website was impossible for me to operate. If you are stuck, you could try asking a friendly waitress as they usually speak great English and can often be really helpful making calls for you.

A round tower and a metal serrated monument — Interesting juxtaposition of satellite tower and saw sculpture, Thessaloniki, Greece

I have discovered this since writing the above : Bus tickets pagebus website KTEL Macedonia – new e tickets available. I am leaving both sets of information so that you have 2 options. Please leave a comment if you find the best way and that will help others. Thank you.

You can also buy ferry tickets, and transport or store luggage through KTEL Macedonia (as above).

The police boarded the Komotini – Thessaloniki bus, looked at random people’s passports, and took 3 men off this morning who had no papers.

Green fertile countryside flashes by through train window — On the way to Thessaloniki by train

Which bus station?

It is therefore best to book at the bus station (KTEL has 2 bus stations in Athens: Kifissos and Liossion. Note that when it asks you which one you want to leave from, it also includes ‘Pireus, Athens’ which is actually half an hour away by car so you don’t want that unless you happen to be staying near there). Alternatively you can ring up: I got a very nice man on the phone who spoke manageable English and he took my name and gave me the information and advice I needed. ( When I got there a few days later and went to buy the ticket, he introduced himself to me saying it was he who I had spoken to – what service!) There is a 25 per cent discount in advance which is hard if you are making spontaneous decisions.

Rural scene with terracotta roof — The Greek countryside between Athens and Thessaloniki

Other

There is no bla bla car (online car sharing in France, Spain etc) here in Greece. There are regular tolls along the motorways – between 3-13 euros depending on the distance. See below for other people’s blogs about travelling in Greece.

Bus Athens to Thessaloniki 39 euros one way, 59 euros return (note that the English translation says ‘refund’ instead of ‘return’!

A round old stone building by the sea — The White Tower, Thessaloniki, Greece

23 euros bus Komotini to Thessaloniki (6 hours)

2 euros X1 bus Thessaloniki (dome) Macedonia bus station to airport. Every half hour. Buy ticket from kiosk by bus stop.Very crowded. 40 – 60 minutes.

1.50 euros bus Proskinites to Komotini

Here is a good Athens Guide https://www.nomadicmatt.com/travel-guides/greece-travel-tips/#getaround

Greece

Athens – Where I stayed & graffiti

Athens Accommodation – 1

For a few days I was lucky enough to stay at the Philippos Hotel, and I recommend it for the breakfast (a buffet – all you can eat, including olives, feta and fresh tomatoes, sumptious cakes and pastries – look out for the one with pine nuts and craberries – yum!), the huge balcony with table chairs and sun lounger, cleanliness, olive oil soaps and other toiletries, and friendly staff (and that means friendliness from reception, kitchen, cleaning ,and repairing people – all with cheery ‘kalimera‘s’ / good morning).

Urban white-washed balconies with plants — View from the Philippos Hotel balcony. From the other side you could see the edge of the Acropolis citadel, Athens, Greece

Athens air bnb – 2

I stayed in Psyri which is described as ‘full of character’. The part that is closest to the Monastiraki and Plaka parts of the city is lively in the evenings with lights hanging across the streets and bars constantly full. However, it is full of the saddest cats I have ever seen.

Coloured fairy lights and vines hang above Eschilou street — Bars on Eschilou, Athens, Greece

Psyri

The other half of Psyri quarter, to the north on the way to Omonia, is full of friendly people, but dirty and noisy with a lot of men shifting large boxes and dealing in who knows what. The diminutive man in the corner shop opposite had communicative English and told me he has been working 18 hours a day, 7 days a week without a single day off in years, because he is saving to go back to Bangladesh and start a shop there.

There is a good bakery, a Pilates Studio which offers Shiatsu (42 Zone), and a brass bed shop – all on or near Sarri where my air bnb was.

Brass ornaments, lamps, bedheads — Brass bed shop at the corner of Sarri, Athens, Greece

Although I had some considerable trouble getting into my apartment, the sign below for Athens Walkers (Their website (which is currently down) states that it is ‘a small cooperative that operates all year long. We want to establish human relationships and build authentic friendships’) was outside the door so I guessed I was in the right place!

Walking Tour Co-operative — Athens Walkers sign outside my air bnb, a signal that I had arrived at the right place because I am an inveterate walker

It turned out, after I had been there for 5 days, that there was roof garden on the 6th floor of my block, with fantastic views.

Night sky with moon and Parthenon — Nearly full moon over the Acropolis

Graffiti Street Art

What unites both sides of this neighbourhood is the street art – a veritable hoarde of fascinating images and skill. It looks like there are some vibrant clubs and bars in the back streets, but I was warned not to be out on my own in this area at night and was, anyway, busy elsewhere most evenings. There were other tourists who had strayed here, otherwise it was local people. I did walk home alone though and had no trouble – I simply did not meet anyone’s eye and kept on going straight, with an air of purpose!

Line drawing of a heart with flowers on wall — The organ of the heart – graffiti

Red, green and white painted heart organ with blood vessels — Painted heart organ graffiti, Psyri, Athens, Greece

Love inscription and pollution drawing on heart — More heart graffiti, Psyri, Athens, Greece

There was a place called Heart of Athens (maybe a nightclub?) nearby, which might have explained the subject matter of these graffiti artists. I don’t know about you, but once I have started to see a theme, I find it everywhere!

Heart broken in Athens — Written graffiti, Athens, Greece

Trying to find love in a world full of thorns — Parrot graffiti, Athens, Greece

Love has no gender, language, nationality — Pride banner, Athens, Greece

Monastiraki, Plaka, Omonia areas of Athens, Greece

Monastiraki is south of Psyri, a bustling square with a metro station, beautiful church and a million people at all times of the day and night as far as I could tell. Plaka is slightly south east, a pretty hub full of restaurants (mostly for tourists I think) and some welcome green plants. It is beside the Roman Forum (a prime spot for sunset photos) and not far from the Acropolis itself. Omonia is a very large roundabout full of traffic, high rise flats with a shopping centre where you can find the Greek version of Boots The Chemist if you need it (Hondos Centre), and a metro station.

stalls in front of Greek orthodox Church — Early morning street scene with Acropolis in the background

Cafe scene with graffiti — Plaka area of Athens, Greece

Greece

Athens – food, drink, shopping

Food and drink

Often when I travel I buy my food cheaply from supermarkets and prepare it for myself in the hostel – not so here. I sampled all manner of delicacies and was treated to traditional food from all parts of the country. I also learned about a long-standing Greek Orthodox funeral food custom.

Calamari, fish and chips, restaurant food, Greece

Street Food

Street food is good! I had a vege open pie from Feyrouz on Kapori in Athens, and at Falafellas on Ailiou I had falafels in pitta with aubergine (egg plant), yogurt, tomatoes and the option of spices for 3.80 euros for a medium, normal lunch size. Small outlets sell coffee and sandwiches with a wide array of fillings, such as the corner of Eyripidou and Eolou. At this place a take-away iced, decaff cappuccino is 1.20 euros and you get a bottle of cold water thrown in.

Fresh Fruit Juice

Likewise, juice shops are everywhere in the Greek capital and most refreshing in the heat. Nova Gea, 6 Vyronos, had a novel way of serving where you placed your jam jar under the tap at the base of the counter and waited for it to pour in.

Restaurants

For meals with friends, try Avocado (vegetarian) where there are books to read.

People sitting outside restaurant eating in Athens — Avocado Restaurant, Athens, Greece

There are so many places where you can eat under the stars in Athens. I loved Seychelles for an array of delicacies including flava bean puree, sardines wrapped in vine leaves, a cooked green veg salad (pvlita) and carob rusks; and Katsourmpos for Cretan food where I sampled chips cooked in goat’s butter with eggs on top, and Greek salad with bread soaked in the wonderful dressing.

Fish pate sprinlled with chives — Taramasalata with prawns and toast, Athens, Greece

Home Cooking

The best meal was one prepared by my hosts (Italian and Greek) of barbounia (red mullet fish), Greek cooked vegetables with a sauce made of mustard, spices and olive oil), and salads (Greek and Greens), all washed down by tsipouro (an un-aged brandy) which they had bought from a monastery on Paros – lethal at lunch time.

Table set with Greek vegetables for lunch — Salads on the table, before the fish arrived! Athens, Greece

Green pouring mayonnaise with herbs — Sauce for the Greek vegetables – mustard, spices and olive oil

Cooked fish with head and tail — Sea Bream (*Tsipoura*), Athens, Greece

Greek un-aged brandy — *Tsipouro* – deadly! Athens, Greece

Cafe advice

The café at the Acropolis Museum (outside which proudly flutters The Flag of Europe) was cool to cold with air conditioning and has an amazing view of Mount Lycabettus and the…. Acropolis – watch out you don’t get stuck in the Ladies loos!

Glass doors with mountain reflected in them — Reflection of Mount Lycabettus in the roof cafe window, Acropolis Museum, Athens, Greece

The Parthenon in the distance — View of the Acropolis from the roof cafe at the Acropolis Museum, Athens, Greece

Supermarkets and Food Shopping

There are not many large supermarkets in the neighbourhoods mentioned above, however google for any Sklavenitis (8 minutes from Psyri) or AB Vasilopoulos (9 minutes from Psyri) which are the major chains in Greece. Cheese and fish counters are of particular note, but you won’t find biscuits or oat cakes (a Scottish delicacy)! The range of cakes, pastries and biscuits that you will find in the bakeries, however, is vast and there are sugar free options as well as artisan bread.

Red and orange strings of dried chillis — Herbs and spices hanging outside a shop in Athens, Greece

You can buy a dazzling array of fruit and veg from wayside shops and stalls in Aristofanous; there is a Central Municipal Market off Athinas (the name of the road); and there are fascinating individual shops selling cheese, olives, flowers, hardware and useful things to put on an altar on Evripidou.

Honey and jars of marmelade — A stack of olive oil and other Greek specialities

Goats and cow scheese counter with seller — Cheeses from all around Greece being sold in Athens

Wooden crates of spices and bunches herbs — Herbs (chamomile) and dried fruits (orange and apple) in huge sacks, Athens, Greece

Loops of pork and chorizo — Meats and sausage, Athens, Greece

Other Shopping

Garlands of pretend flowers, incense holders — For making an altar, Athens, Greece

Naked male figure and clothed goddesses — Greek statuary is sold in various forms

Unlike Estonia and Norway, where the alcohol is sold in separate stores (not beer), here you can get it in the supermarkets, but it was much more expensive than I thought it would be – about the same as the UK. On the other hand, in the small villages near where I have stayed a couple of times in the north, you can get a bottle of retsina for 1.25 euros.

Emptying bottles for recycling — Recycling seems to happen in the suburbs but not in the centre, as far as I could see

On my beach day I was taken for a late lunch at Theodore and Helen’s (Leof. Legrenon, Lavreotiki 195 00 Te; +30 2292 051936) – where the platter of salads including the sea greens (which were the best) and the mussels were sumptuous.

Feta cheese, beetroot and sea greens — Platter of salads, Athens, Greece

Sample menus with prices and deep fried strips of courgette (zucchini) in the restaurant outside Athens near Kape Beach

Sample menu

Sample menu 2

Delicious!

Stalls and shops line the streets around the Acropolis selling clothes, trinkets, leather goods and jewellery. Some shop keepers call or tempt you in, others sit outside smoking and looking very hot. If you pass by every day as I did, you start to see the displays changing, and without meaning to, you stop and browse. I had to rein myself in from buying anything that would take my rucksack over weight, even though I wanted to get mementoes for my daughters and family.

Shop dummies wearing fur jackets with dogs — Two different sorts of fur coats, inside and out. Athens shop front and dogs, Greece

Coliva – Greek Orthodox Funeral Food

I was in Athens to lead a workshop for Shiatsu practitioners who are working with the dying or those suffering loss. On the second day, Panayiota who was organising the event, brought in a cake made by her sister.

Funeral cake with white sugar and silver cross on top — Coliva – Greek food for mourners

This beautiful creation is called Coliva and it is for Greek Orthodox mourners to eat after the interment. The server mixes it up and then you can see that it is like a loose melee of mixed nuts including almonds, pomegranate, raisins (golden and black), white sugar and sometimes also coriander and parsley – lively colours and a variety of textures and tastes. It tasted really good and fortifying. Portions are put into individual, brown paper bags and handed to each person, and eating it together symbolises the sharing of the pain of living without the deceased.

Initially this dish was prepared to appease the gods of Hades, the underworld, so that they would give up the body after death, allowing it to go to a better place. Nowadays, it is to fortify the grieving.

A robot in a shop window carrying a ‘We heart food’ bag

Here is some advice from a local friend who was so kind as to send me suggestions:

If you are hungry you can stop at the oldest pastry shop Ariston (Voulis 10, Athina 105 62, Greece) which is parallel to Ermou Street. Ermou Street is the biggest shopping street.

For coffee or a cold drink you can visit A for Athens, it has a great top floor café open to everyone and you can see the Parthenon. And if you are hungry you can go at Savvas across the road (Ermou 91, Athina 105 55, Greece).

For drinks, here is a hidden bar at The Art Foundation Taf (Address: Normanou 5, Athina 105 55, Greece)

Another couple of places for nice traditional sweets are Krinos and Sermpetiko Nancys Sweet Home (Pl. Iroon 1, Athina 105 54, Greece)

Chocolate and sweetmeats — Greek sweets sold from a bakery come wrapped in silver foil

Finally, I found this recommendation: Vasilopoulos deli in Klafthmonos square is where you can find a bit of everything, some of the best products from around the globe. 10 minutes walk from Psyri.

Greece

The Sights of Athens, Greece

Mostly a photo essay – June 2019

Photographs of some of the wonderful sights in Athens which I saw on my trip

Blue and grey hues of the concrete and glass Acropolis Museum in Athens, Greece — The Acropolis Museum, Athens, Greece

The white Classical architecture of the National Archaeological Museum with trees on either side and the tiled driveway curving up,, Athens, Greece — The National Archaeological Museum, Athens, Greece

The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier with soldiers and their shadows marching in front — Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, Athens, Greece

Classical Greek architecture with colums, pillars, statues and Greek flag flying — The old National Library, Athens, Greece

There are many beautiful Greek Orthodox churches everywhere

The domed roof of a very old Greek Orthodox Church amongst pretty bouganvillia and spiky trees — Church of Ayia Aikaterini below on the left where P and L got married, Athens, Greece

A Greek Orthodox Church with towers and dome next to Olive trees — Greek Orthodox Church, Athens, Greece

Beige and white Greek Orthodox Church with columns, turrets, crosses and stepped entrance — A Greek orthodox Church, painted white and In a side street off Sarri, Psyri, Athens, Greece

Simple exterior of Greek Orthodox Church with decorated window and cross on top — Church entrance, Athens, Greece

Pink, silver and gold church interior with the Virgin Mary and Christ — Church interior second only in richness (in my experience) to St Mark’s In Rome and Samye Ling Buddhist Temple in Dumfries and Galloway, Scotland. This one is in Athens, Greece

Doorway to a religious crypt with frescoes in natural setting — Crypt, Aiolu, Athens, Greece

Towering column and domed roof painted blue with silver stars of Greek Orthodox Church, Athens — Ekklesia Panagia Chrysospilaiotissa Orthodox Church of Theotokou – Virgin, Athens Greece

Blue painted roof with golden stars and red walls with religious paintings — Ekklesia Panagia Chrysospilaiotissa Orthodox Church of Theotokou – Virgin, Athens Greece

Classical Greek facade of school with columns and triangular roof, Athens — Very grand school, Athens, Greece

Other nice places and things I passed by and snapped

Pink facade with Greek urn, 2 windows and decorated roof — Modern day exterior influenced by Classical Athens, Greece

Small decorated water fountain with 2 basins and flower motif — Fountain, Athens, Greece

3 busts of Famous Greek men Socrates Plato Aristotle — The three best known men in Ancient Greece – Saorates, Plato and Aristotle (at night), Athens, Greece

Overall it is very built up with only a few green areas, although you will come across gorgeous flowers every now and then. Try and cut through the area around the Acropolis and you will get a little mountain feeling – parched but traffic free and mosaic full. Thanks to the lovely Maria for showing me the way.

Tag: Athens

Tinos and Chora town

Introduction

Practicalities

Café

Accomodation

Old Weaving School, Chora

Archaeological Museum

Artist’s Residency and Maria Valela

Links

Athens and Greece – getting from place to place

Getting Around

Travel around Athens

The Athens Metro

Trains, buses and travel out of Athens

Bus travel

Which bus station?

Other

Athens – Where I stayed & graffiti

Athens Accommodation – 1

Athens air bnb – 2

Psyri

Graffiti Street Art

Monastiraki, Plaka, Omonia areas of Athens, Greece

Athens – food, drink, shopping

Food and drink

Street Food

Fresh Fruit Juice

Restaurants

Home Cooking

Cafe advice

Supermarkets and Food Shopping

Other Shopping

Coliva – Greek Orthodox Funeral Food

Here is some advice from a local friend who was so kind as to send me suggestions:

The Sights of Athens, Greece

Photographs of some of the wonderful sights in Athens which I saw on my trip

Other nice places and things I passed by and snapped

Places I will go next time I visit

Introduction

Practicalities

Café

Accomodation

Old Weaving School, Chora

Archaeological Museum

Artist’s Residency and Maria Valela

Links

Share this:

Getting Around

Travel around Athens

The Athens Metro

Trains, buses and travel out of Athens

Bus travel

Which bus station?

Other

Share this:

Athens Accommodation – 1

Athens air bnb – 2

Psyri

Graffiti Street Art

Monastiraki, Plaka, Omonia areas of Athens, Greece

Share this:

Food and drink

Street Food

Fresh Fruit Juice

Restaurants

Home Cooking

Cafe advice

Supermarkets and Food Shopping

Other Shopping

Coliva – Greek Orthodox Funeral Food

Here is some advice from a local friend who was so kind as to send me suggestions:

Share this:

Photographs of some of the wonderful sights in Athens which I saw on my trip

Other nice places and things I passed by and snapped

Places I will go next time I visit

Share this: