Scotland has a bit of reputation when it comes to the weather! If you live here, you know that there can be gloriously sunny, crisp days when it is a pleasure to be alive. However, it does rain sometimes, even in the summer, so here are some of my favourite places to go on those wet days!
1. The National Museum of Scotland
This magnificent building is on Chambers Street, just 15 minutes’ walk from Princes Street in the city centre. Free entry. Open daily 10.00-17.00.
There are interactive things for kids (and big kids!) including machines and massive stuffed animals; fascinating Scottish historical artefacts displayed in creative ways; original temporary exhibitions; plus it is warm; there is a decent cafe; free wifi ….
…. jewellery, spacecraft, dinosaurs, Buddhas, death masks and the bizarre and wonderful Millennium Clock made by Tim Stead and others, which clatters and whirrs every hour, plays Bach and is just a must-see.
2. The Scottish National Portrait Gallery
Whilst being equally grand and beautiful, in contrast the inside of this building is made of darker wood with a silent sweep of staircase. Look up in awe at the iconic painted panels of Scottish queens and kings all around its walls.
Do not miss the shrunken heads in the bijou library; the originally flavoured scones in the cafe; or the modern portraits such as the brooding Naomi Mitchison (novelist), sexy Michael Clark (dancer) and David Mach’s collage of Gavin Hastings (Rugby player). Free entry. Open daily 10.00-17.00.
3. The Filmhouse
Home of the Edinburgh International Film Festival, you can view the best of independent cinema here on Lothian Road.
With 3 screens showing work from around the world, and a lively cafe where there is often a very interesting art exhibition, you can also browse and buy from the idiosyncratic film shelves, and the tickets are affordable.
3. The Dovecot cafe by Leo’s
The Dovecot is a weaving gallery where tapestries are being woven while you walk around it! Monday to Saturday 10.00-17.00.
Found in the old Infirmary Street swimming baths (where there is also a small gift shop with original ware), the highlight is the amazing viewing gallery where you can watch the Master Weavers at work. This cafe, brought to you by Leos Beanery which has its own outlet at 23A Howe Street, EH3 6TF, serves delicious cakes, yummy savouries and good coffee. Free entry.
4. Glenogle Swimming Baths
These restored Victorian baths have a modern sauna and gym with Pilates and yoga classes.
Located in the crook of the Water of Leith, among the attractive colonies housing area which is very near the trendy Stockbridge part of Edinburgh, you can exercise and relax, with or without children, calming your nervous system as you float, and emerging clean and sparkling afterwards.
5. Bookshops
Edinburgh has a literary array of independent bookshops from Golden Hare in Stockbridge (68 St Stephen Street EH3 5AQ) to Lighthouse, Edinburgh’s Radical Bookshop at 43- 45 West Nicolson Street, EH8 9DB, from Argonaut with its lovely cafe at the foot of Leith Walk (#15-17), to the miniscule but delightful Typewronger at the top (4a Haddington Place, EH7 4AE), and from Portobello at 46 Portobello High Street (the inspired author, Ali Smith, dedicated her new novel to them) to Topping and Co at 2 Blenheim Place, EH7 5JH.
Then there’s Waterstone’s, part of a national chain of bookshops and quite grand in its own way. The initial flight of stairs splits to take you right and left to the different departments, and the mezzanine floor houses the cafe which has a great view of Edinburgh Castle.
In all of these, you can cosy down in a warm carpeted corner or on a comfy armchair, and transport yourself into the world of Trainspotting (Irvine Walsh’s gritty novel set in Edinburgh’s Leith) or Hogwarts of course (the Harry Potter books written in part at the Elephant House cafe by J.K. Rowling).
6. St Mary’s Cathedral
Get away from the noise and crowds for some quiet contemplation in St Mary’s Episcopalian Cathedral. See the contemporary and colourful stained glass, especially the Paolozzi window; and the radiant glow of ‘The Presence’, a painting by the Edinburgh artist A.E. Borthwick from 1910. When the clouds clear and the sun comes out, walk the wildflower labyrinth.
7. Central Library
Funded by philanthropist Andrew Carnegie, look out for the stunning ceiling of the George Washington Browne room, the hidden Fine Art library (wooden tables and chairs as you would imagine from your childhood) which has interesting art exhibitions, and a substantial local history / Scottish section.
Downside: the toilets are in the basement, but, upside, you get to see some lesser known art as you wind your way down there.
Finding wifi
And, finally, I know when I am travelling I need to keep in contact with friends and family and if I am having trouble with my phone I need wifi: Try the Fruitmarket Gallery cafe where you can also see contemporary art exhibitions of the highest calibre.
The National Museum of Scotland is at Chambers Street, Edinburgh, EH1 1JF. Tel: 0300 123 6789.
Walking without a donkey 