Early November 2019 and there are lots of hikers on this most beautiful Fisherman’s Trail, the Rota Vicentina along the south western coast of Portugal.
At Cabo Sardao for example, I saw 11 in 5 minutes – in groups of 2, 5 and 4 – something I’m not used to when walking in remote areas alone. A single walker and a pair were spotted this morning on the beach at Zambujeira do Mar. Ranging from German to American, there are walkers’ gatherings in cafes and hostels at the end of each stage, exactly as you would expect on the Camino Frances in Spain.
1. Rota Vicentina
The trail runs from Cabo San Vicente to Porto Covo, or vice versa and is 350 kms in total, each stage being around12 to 22 kms in length.
The Rota Vicentina consists of two major routes (GR), the Historical Way and the Fishermen’s Trail, which contain 24 circular routes totaling 740 km.
You can be creative in choosing your route – trying the whole or part of it – to suit you, your physical capacity, and time availability.
The two grand routes are divided into sections which are varied in length: between 11 and 33 km. If you were to complete all of the sections at the rate of one per day, you would need the same number of days to complete the Rota Vicentina.
Circular Routes are shorter, ranging from 4 to 16 km in length.
Ideally, you would prepare yourself before departure and take water and groceries with you for the day of walking, since not all sections visit places with coffee shops and / or grocery stores.
At most of the start and end of stage points, you will have no problem buying food. Check each village to see what they offer.
Both the Fishermen’s Trail and the Historical Way have clear signs in both directions.
2. Fishermans Trail
Mostly by the sea, the Fishermen’s Trail travels along the paths used by the locals to access the beaches and fishing grounds. It’s a single track, walkable only on foot along the cliffs, with lots of sand, and it is therefore more physically demanding. It’s a challenge, but contact with the wind, the sea, the coastal landscape and the presence of a wild and persistent nature makes it worthwhile.
‘I booked it ahead, very easy as the accommodation is all on booking.com, but I didn’t need to. I got the details from the Rota Vicentina website which is very good, but there was more accommodation than was shown on the site and in most places you have a choice of near empty hotels.’ John Hayes
John Hayes Walks website, in English, with accounts of each day in Spring time.
Walking without a donkey 