Tag: Dovecot

Greece

Tinos and Kionia

May 2023

In this blog

T1A walk to Kionia, Poseidon Sanctuary, walk from Kionia to Chora (Tinos town).

Dovcot of traditional design outside Ktikados, Tinos, Greece

There are a wide range of walks around the Greek island of Tinos. Look out for wild goats, the most stunning variety of local flowers, and unexpected chapels with cool interiors, often with murals and other atmospheric images. On the whole the paths are quite well signposted, and the ones I made travelled through varied scenery, almost all taking in at least one of the famous dovecots. There are no high mountains, but there is some climbing and descending. Do look out for trails that can be dusty from lack of rain and slippery, also narrow and overgrown ones through lack of clearing, however, none of the ones I tried were impassable.

T1A trail – flora, Ktikados, chapel, and geology

I started the T1 trail at the Panagia Shrine, Chora, Tinos, Greece
View of Chora (looking back) from T1 trail, Tinos, Greece

It was a wonderful day which took me steeply out of the city, hard by the Panagia shrine (Holy Monastery of  Virgin Mary Evangelistria) and an olive grove, past hens, goats and ladybirds in the fields, and a vast array of wild plants: pink and white oleander, fig trees, sea lavender, and a giant cacti replete with prickly pears. I meandered along crazy-paving paths with spectacular views of the sea, across slopes with small churches, and amongst giant geological specimens.

Oleander, sea lavender and prickly pears along the T1 trail, Tinos, Greece

Geological map of Tinos from a presentation made as part of the Artist’s Residency, The Inherited Earth, part of the Fe26 project a collective research program by the NWMW NPO team 2023
T1 trail
Geology of Tinos

There was a small church open for me to visit. Co-ordinates 37°33’35.8″N 25°09’34.2″E

I stopped in the small village of Ktikados for a break, enjoying melizanosalata (baba ganoush / aubergine dip) and a cup of tea.

View from the Drosia Taverna, Ktikados, Tinos, Greece
Ktikados

This walk comes highly recommended.

Great views of Exomvourgo (hill), Tinos, Greece
My offerings to the Panagia on the T1 trail, Tinos Greece
On the T1 trail

Eventually I descended to the beach in Kionia (see below) and had a refreshing swim.

The Poseidon Sanctuary

Along the boardwalks I was delighted to discover, by chance, the Poseidon Sanctuary which, in its heyday, attracted pilgrims from beyond the borders of the Greece, as far away as Italy, Asia Minor, and Africa.

Therapy Rooms
Poseidon Sanctuary

The Poseidon Sanctuary is believed to date from the 4th century or earlier, placing it in the Hellenistic Period. Dedicated to the sea nymph Aphrite (Amphitriti) and Poseidon, god of the sea, it was a place where visitors would come to clean and purify themselves. As a complementary therapist, I was particularly interested in the site of the former therapy rooms (above left).

I gave Shiatsu to one of the artists I met, on the beach below this typical church while a kitten played with my rucksack, Kionia, Tinos, Greece.

I returned to Chora from Kionia, a walk of 40 plus minutes, along the main coastal road. Careful as there is no pavement in parts!

Traditional Wayside Shrine
Offering

During my stay on Tinos, I crocheted wild flowers that I found as I walked and offered them in little niches by way of thanks for my experience on the island.

The title photo showing the peacocks, is of a plaque outside the Panagia shrine in Chora town. All images are my own.

Links

See also my blog: Tinos and Chora

Trails Tinos

Kirki Projects – about Tinos and artist’s residency

Map and walks by Desired landscapes

Poseidon Sanctuary on Secret Tinos site

Walking without a donkey - travels in Edinburgh

7 things to do in Edinburgh when it rains

Scotland has a bit of reputation when it comes to the weather! If you live here, you know that there can be gloriously sunny, crisp days when it is a pleasure to be alive. However, it does rain sometimes, even in the summer, so here are some of my favourite places to go on those wet days!

1. The National Museum of Scotland

    This magnificent building is on Chambers Street, just 15 minutes’ walk from Princes Street in the city centre. Free entry. Open daily 10.00-17.00.

    Magnificent main hall of the Edinburgh Chambers Street museum
    The National Museum of Edinburgh

    There are interactive things for kids (and big kids!) including machines and massive stuffed animals; fascinating Scottish historical artefacts displayed in creative ways; original temporary exhibitions; plus it is warm; there is a decent cafe; free wifi ….

    Frieze of Greek figures found in National Museum of Scotland
    Atalanta and Hippomenes

    …. jewellery, spacecraft, dinosaurs, Buddhas, death masks and the bizarre and wonderful Millennium Clock made by Tim Stead and others, which clatters and whirrs every hour, plays Bach and is just a must-see.

    Huge Buddha sitting, right hand raised, eyes closed
    Giant Buddha, National Museums of Scotland, Chambers Street

    2. The Scottish National Portrait Gallery

    Whilst being equally grand and beautiful, in contrast the inside of this building is made of darker wood with a silent sweep of staircase. Look up in awe at the iconic painted panels of Scottish queens and kings all around its walls.

    The facade of the Portrait Gallery with towers and statues
    The National Portrait Gallery, Queens Street, Edinburgh

    Do not miss the shrunken heads in the bijou library; the originally flavoured scones in the cafe; or the modern portraits such as the brooding Naomi Mitchison (novelist), sexy Michael Clark (dancer) and David Mach’s collage of Gavin Hastings (Rugby player). Free entry. Open daily 10.00-17.00.

    3. The Filmhouse

    Home of the Edinburgh International Film Festival, you can view the best of independent cinema here on Lothian Road.

    The Usher (concert) Hall, steps and facade
    The famous Usher Hall opposite the Filmhouse on Lothian Road, Edinburgh

    With 3 screens showing work from around the world, and a lively cafe where there is often a very interesting art exhibition, you can also browse and buy from the idiosyncratic film shelves, and the tickets are affordable.

    3. The Dovecot cafe by Leo’s

    The Dovecot is a weaving gallery where tapestries are being woven while you walk around it! Monday to Saturday 10.00-17.00.

    A row of 4 chairs with Orla Kiely fabric
    Orla Kieley chairs at the Dovecot Studios, Edinburgh

    Found in the old Infirmary Street swimming baths (where there is also a small gift shop with original ware), the highlight is the amazing viewing gallery where you can watch the Master Weavers at work. This cafe, brought to you by Leos Beanery which has its own outlet at 23A Howe Street, EH3 6TF, serves delicious cakes, yummy savouries and good coffee. Free entry.

    4. Glenogle Swimming Baths

    These restored Victorian baths have a modern sauna and gym with Pilates and yoga classes.

    Two ducks swimming on the Water of Leith, Edinburgh
    A lovely day for ducks!

    Located in the crook of the Water of Leith, among the attractive colonies housing area which is very near the trendy Stockbridge part of Edinburgh, you can exercise and relax, with or without children, calming your nervous system as you float, and emerging clean and sparkling afterwards.

    5. Bookshops

    skillfully written essays about the Scottish landscape , birds and sea mammals
    Sightlines: A Conversation with the Natural World by Kathleen Jamie

    Edinburgh has a literary array of independent bookshops from Golden Hare in Stockbridge (68 St Stephen Street EH3 5AQ) to Lighthouse, Edinburgh’s Radical Bookshop at 43- 45 West Nicolson Street, EH8 9DB, from Argonaut with its lovely cafe at the foot of Leith Walk (#15-17), to the miniscule but delightful Typewronger at the top (4a Haddington Place, EH7 4AE), and from Portobello at 46 Portobello High Street (the inspired author, Ali Smith, dedicated her new novel to them) to Topping and Co at 2 Blenheim Place, EH7 5JH.

    Typewronger book shop has a Book Fringe 2025

    Then there’s Waterstone’s, part of a national chain of bookshops and quite grand in its own way. The initial flight of stairs splits to take you right and left to the different departments, and the mezzanine floor houses the cafe which has a great view of Edinburgh Castle.

    In all of these, you can cosy down in a warm carpeted corner or on a comfy armchair, and transport yourself into the world of Trainspotting (Irvine Walsh’s gritty novel set in Edinburgh’s Leith) or Hogwarts of course (the Harry Potter books written in part at the Elephant House cafe by J.K. Rowling).

    Book cover of Madeleine Bunting
    Love of Country: A Hebridean Journey

    6. St Mary’s Cathedral

    Get away from the noise and crowds for some quiet contemplation in St Mary’s Episcopalian Cathedral. See the contemporary and colourful stained glass, especially the Paolozzi window; and the radiant glow of ‘The Presence’, a painting by the Edinburgh artist A.E. Borthwick from 1910. When the clouds clear and the sun comes out, walk the wildflower labyrinth.

    The steeples of St Mary's Cathedral, Edinburgh
    St Mary’s Cathedral, Palmerston Place, Edinburgh
    St Mary’s Episcopal Cathedral wildflower labyrinth

    7. Central Library

    Funded by philanthropist Andrew Carnegie, look out for the stunning ceiling of the George Washington Browne room, the hidden Fine Art library (wooden tables and chairs as you would imagine from your childhood) which has interesting art exhibitions, and a substantial local history / Scottish section.

    Decorative tiles on the stair wall of the central Library, Edinburgh
    Get Wisdom – tiles at Central Library, Edinburgh

    Downside: the toilets are in the basement, but, upside, you get to see some lesser known art as you wind your way down there.

    Finding wifi

    And, finally, I know when I am travelling I need to keep in contact with friends and family and if I am having trouble with my phone I need wifi: Try the Fruitmarket Gallery cafe where you can also see contemporary art exhibitions of the highest calibre.

    The Unforgetting exhibition by Holly Davey
    Silhouette of the Edinburgh Castle on the Mound
    Edinburgh Castle after the rain

    The National Museum of Scotland is at Chambers Street, Edinburgh, EH1 1JF. Tel: 0300 123 6789.