Sunrise Walks 2024

This is a Pedestrian Project about marking time. It took place between 27th October and 4th November 2024 (inc. images from 5th November).

I’m no creature of habit. Left to myself, I struggle to do the anything every day at the same time; I rarely eat at regular mealtimes, and having been self-employed for my adult life, I’ve never worked an on-going 9-5 (am-pm) day. Not since school.

Photos Taken 15 minutes Before Sunrise (or thereabouts)

This may explain why Sunrise Walks are an interesting concept to me. Instead of following my own inner, wonky routine, I have decided to set my alarm and be there, on my doorstep at the correct time, every day between the clock chaging in the UK and in the US, as prompted by Blake Morris. The brief was to take a photo (or somehow to document) the moments that were 15 minutes before, at, and 15 minutes after, sunrise.

Except …

Sunrise changes by 2+ minutes every day so it isn’t actually ‘the same’. I made a chart in advance:

I didn’t notice that blip until day 7 and it was too late to change by then

Times and Twilight

I took the sunrise times from the Time and Date website and missed the 3 minute difference between 28th and 29th October. Instead, I saw that there were 2 minutes between 27th and 28th, 30th and 31st etc and followed that pattern for all of the start and end times (I’d be no good in a lab or at setting train timetables) meaning that from day 3, I was snapping my photos at the wrong times.

In writing this blog, I have discovered that this anomaly is because …

The Earth’s orbit around the Sun is elliptical, rather than circular, and the Earth’s axis of rotation is not perpendicular to the plane of the orbit.  This non-circularity of the orbit and the tilt of the Earth’s axis of rotation both contribute to the uneven changes in the times of sunrise and sunset.

Jeff Mangum on the National Radio Astronomy Observatory

As an aside: I really like the idea of ‘civil twilight’ (above). That’s exactly how it was. It related to me as an ordinary person (not a military woman nor an ecclesiastical one) and was both a courteous and a polite time of day. I always thought twilight was before the dark finally settled down to sleep, but it means, “the soft glowing light from the sky when the sun is below the horizon, caused by the reflection of the sun’s rays from the atmosphere.” (Oxford dictionary), so it can apply to sunrise AND sunset.

Civil twilight “Begins in the morning, or ends in the evening, when the geometric center of the sun is 6 degrees below the horizon. Therefore morning civil twilight begins when the geometric center of the sun is 6 degrees below the horizon, and ends at sunrise.”

National Weather Service

If you are interested in that, you’ll probably like this too: Guardian article, The three phases of twilight, explained

The Route

Anyway, I chose to walk the same route every day. Starting at the view near my front door 15 minutes before, walking to the highest point of Granton Crescent Park for sunrise, then down and through The Wasteland (to check whether my banner was still there and if the bulbs that we planted on the community walk had come up), and along to Wardie Bay for 15 minutes after. I didn’t make it on time to the beach every day as I got distracted by yellow cones at low tide and all manner of other things.

The Wasteland. Looking through the brambles from the Granton Crescent Park steps – the banner on the far wall had blown down again, but the circle of stones was in tact (at this date)

Traffic cones at low tide (left). That must have been a fine game for someone – really? They matched all sorts of other yellows which presented themselves: a sherbet-yellow yacht in the harbour, wild ragwort, chamomile (middle, like fried eggs with frayed edges), and spears of ageing sea buckthorn leaves (right). A flock of pigeons wheeled silently overhead, a single oyster catcher peeped piercingly, and a young gull lifted his feet higher than usual, one by one, to clear the wet grass fronds.

What happened?

  • The devil was watching just as I set off on the first day, and I dropped and completely broke my phone (the one with a decent camera). I reverted to my daughter’s very old one for the rest of the project hence the grainy quality of the images. That made me choose when and whether to take photos at all. I sketched and took careful mental notes so that I would remember, and spent time afterwards writing them down
  • I did this walk at the times on my chart until I got to Friday (day 6) when I realised it would clash with something I actually do every week at the same time, which is to go to my meditation group, so that day’s photos were not taken at the correct times
  • I thought Sunday was the final day (I’d put it in my diary wrong – don’t ever rely on me to be reliable) and on Monday I was doing this really long walk in Fife (the final day of The St Margaret’s Way) which meant that I had to be on an early bus and couldnlt walk the usual route
  • Thank godness art doesn’t have to be a precise science

Photos Taken at Sunrise (pretty much)

Notes on photo gallery above: Sunrise Photos. Day 1 was taken 2 minutes early because of the phone debacle. Day 6 was not taken at the right time either which you can see by the sky colour, though it is a rather nice, pinky purple). The 9th picture above was taken in Anstruther. It wasn’t a Sunrise Walk day, but I needed 9 images to make the photo grid work and found that I had taken a photo at exactly the right time.

What did I discover?

A long, thin black feather and a small slim, silver-blue fish, both on the strand – a grounded agent of flight and a beached swimmer. A series of sandcastles with upright feathers stuck in them like sentinels of the dawn. Border lines: Fife and Inchkeith Island on the horizon; the Eastern breakwater dissecting the sea, along which silouettes walked; the dividing line between the light and dark skin on my arm where the nettle stung me and left a tingling sensation for the remainder of the day. Fallen white poplar leaves and a camp in the little woods with silver tinsel looped over a branch.

Day 5, A Windy Film

I learned that even when I get up at almost exactly the same time every day and walk almost the same route, the world is always different. It’s never the same. My thoughts are not the same, nor are my actions (even if I try) and neither is the sky / moon / sea / trees / rubbish (though the s-shaped hook was there impacted into the pavement every day). I liked the way the lichen pattern nearby and the shape of the crescent moon above seemed to be related to the curtain hook.

These solo walks were also social occassions. I knew that I was walking with other psychogeographers all over the world. We all shared on Intsagram and sent messages to each other, building up relationships over this 8-day period and, in some cases I knew some from previous Sunrise Walks or in-person meetings – I could picture Jackie in Dublin after walking with her in Canterbury, England, Carol near Philadelphia in the US after we First Friday Walked together along the Thames in London last month, and Kel who I’ve before met in Greece and Gloucestershire. Many, if not all, are part of the Walking Artists Network, and Carol, Kel and I are members of Walking the Land Artist Collective.

The last word(s)

I’m awake every day now. At dawn. Is that what it takes?

Compare what happened to day 7! It turned from dull to golden.

Photos Taken 15 Minutes After Sunrise (but not always)

See also: Lia Leendertz’s New Almanac

My 52 Walks with Blake Morris

Link to instagram page where, if you scroll down, there are other Sunrise Walks images I’ve done it before!

Slow Travel (overland)

I’m championing Slow Travel, blogging about going overland on foot, by train, bus, Bla Bla Car, or ferry. I began in 2016 by taking a boat to Santander from Portsmouth across the Bay of Biscay, and walking around Spain, including from Pamplona to Santiago de Compostella (most of the Camino Frances) which took 5 weeks (approx. 410 miles / 660 kms). Then in 2023, I decided ‘no more aeroplanes for me’.

Pyrenees on the Walter Benjamin Trail 2023

There are several reasons why I’m doing this: the most important two are to avoid producing carbon emissions when flying, and the pleasure I get from being able to feel the ground under me and see the places I’m passing through. Ideally, I would walk, and I’ve done a lot of that, but I generally move between cities on wheels on a method of transport where I’m sharing with other people. I’m concerned about global warming and climate change, and would prefer not to be responsible for making it any worse, if possible.

This type of journey is slower. It takes more preparation time, and is often more expensive too, which means that I must incorporate the travel days into my itinerary rather than adding them on to the beginning and end of a holiday. I have chosen to make this a part of my life and art, and I know how lucky I am, privileged, to be able to do that. I stop off whenever I get an invitation to give Shiatsu, exchanging with people as I go, which means that I often meander instead of going in a straight line.

Toulouse-Matabiau train station between Paris and Girona

Between 2016 and early 2023, I did fly (although I often walked from the airport to where I was staying eg in Dublin), so you will find that info in the older blogs (see below, when I went to Croatia, for example. I flew from Paris to Milan and took buses from there to Zagreb.)

Zagreb bus station

Scotland – Greece 1

Scotland – Greece 2

Scotland – Spain (2024)

Portsmouth (England) to Santander (2016)

Walking Spain on foot (and how to get there)

Croatia (includes some airport info as I didn’t make my promise to stop flying until early 2023)

St Pancras Station, London (where you can take the Eurostar to Paris and Brussels)

Athens to Edinburgh overland 1

In early 2023, I made a vow not to fly unless it’s an emergency, not for pleasure nor work, and so I made my expeditions back and forth between Scotland and Greece overland. The first took 10 days, from Athens to Edinburgh, because I broke my journey many times to give Shiatsu and meet friends and family. I took the overnight bus, first to Budapest via Belgrade, then I travelled on to Berlin and The Hague (also by bus), Hook of Holland (tram), Harwich (ferry), London (train), and finally home (train).

I announced my potential route in advance on social media, asking if anyone wanted to do a Shiatsu-hospitality swap. The responses and invitations that I received resulted in an elongated trip; I went off on tangents and saw places I would not have visited otherwise. It meant that I didn’t get to Bratislava or Prague as I’d thought I might, but this collaborative approach to planning allowed for the unexpected, and was a way of letting go of a set itinerary. Along the way I made new friendships and re-newed others, gave gentle, therapeutic touch, and much more besides.

Travelling overland is so very different from flying: These were journeys of paths and mountains which were seen, but not walked. Of borders and boundaries, and The Ministry of Pies. Of the full moon at night and in the early morning. Of towers and rivers – fast glimpsed through windows. They were about fresh air in car parks after miles on the road, a 3am toilet break, new currencies each time I woke, and ‘thank you’s in different languages. Of waiting at yet another border where I whiled away time reading Margaret Forster’s biography of Elizabeth Barrett Browning in the sun (borrowed from one of those mini-book-swap boxes that can be found in public parks all over Europe and the UK, and returned at the next one, in the next city). Of T’ai chi and walking under trees dripping with rain as passports were checked, and of motorways and forests and wheels on solid ground.

Athens to Budapest

I left Athens at 12.30pm, went through Kifisia around 1.30pm, and the bus made toilet stops at Agios Konstantinos at 3.40pm, and passed by Mount Ossa (south of Kozani) around 6.15pm.

Mount Ossa in the distance
The Greek – North Macedonian border (Tsoiliades) 8.15pm
The North Macedonia – Serbian border (Preševo) 11.45pm
Borovac, Serbia 12.30am

Even nearer the North Macedonian – Serbian border at 3.30am

Tips: take a rolled-up sleeping bag and a blow-up pillow, stock up on food and water before you get on, don’t chose a seat near the toilet (if you have a choice), and always get out to stretch your legs and breathe deeply when possible

By 5.30am, we were in Belgrade.

Belgrade to Budapest: six hours

I decided that I must be ‘in the right place’ as our Belgrade stop where people and many boxes left the bus and boarded was called ‘Meridian’ (a key word in Shiatsu denoting the channels through which we image chi flows)

The worst thing about the journey was the smoking – both driver and passengers. I asked them if it was possible to stop and, reluctantly, there was a short hiaitus for the air to clear. It’s not always like this.

River Danube, Novi Sad, Serbia
Terra Travel bus company
Supska, Serbia
Through Palić, Serbia at 9.30am

At Röszke, we waited at the border crossing from Serbia to Hungary, one of the 29 Schengan countries, arriving at 10am and staying until 3pm when we finally got moving again. Luckily the sun was shining and we all spread out. I was the only person doing T’ai chi under the trees (it felt good after hours of sitting on a coach), but not the only one meditating.

At 5pm, we eventually arrived at Budapest where they use the Hungarian Forint currency (1 HUF = £0.0023). There is much more information about accomodation and things to see via the link above. Below, two photos of the Dohány Street Synagogue from the Jewish Quarter where my hostel was located.

Budapest-Keleti train station
On the way to Slovakia from Hungary

Budapest to Trebišov (east of Kovice) Slovakia

I went to stay with Patrik, one of the Shiatsu School Edinburgh graduates, and his family in Trebišov. They were really hospitable and I enjoyed the Shiatsu exchange, walks and talks we shared. The following three images are: the Milenecká ulička park (top), a traditional church (below left), and a Shiatsu room with a poster showing the Masunaga meridians (below right).

On the way back to Budapest, I changed trains at Kosice.

Kosice, Slovakia

Budapest to Balaton, Hungary

Budapest to Balaton, Hungary – adult and child

After staying another night in Budapest, I detoured to rural Hungary, travelling by train to Siófuk near Lake Balaton (south west of Budapest), from where I took a bus to Kopánnyszántó and walked to Koppány Pines to stay with Debs Tetlow (a fellow Juicy Crone). There, I exchanged Shiatsu with her and her husband who run a beautiful camp site, enjoyed walks and sat out the rain in the caravan they prepared so kindly for me.

I stayed in their caravan at Koppány Pines. Hungary

Again, I was returning to Budapest. This time I got a lift in a car to Nagykónyi, and then took the bus back to Lake Balaton (where I visited the Mineral Museum at Siofuk, Kálmán Imre stny. 10 8600, which is recommended), and the train to the Hungarian capital (station Népliget).

Lake Balaton, Hungary

Budapest to Berlin

Soon after leaving Budapest: sunset from the bus

I left Budapest Nepilget at 7.30pm by bus, stopped somewhere for a break at 3.30am, and woke up in Germany at 5.30am to the most atmospheric dawn.

Sunrise Lübenau, Germany

At 7.30 we drew into Berlin Südkreutz and I had a wonderful walk by New Tempelhof where the streets are named after plants: Jasminepfad, Magnoliapfad.

Berlin, Germany to The Hague, Netherlands

I still had a home-made crocheted flower left over from my time on the Greek island of Tinos and, on finding a make-shift altar space in a wall, cleared it and made a grateful offering to Abiona, Goddess of Safe Return.

New Tempelhof

These allotment gardens (which I was told by a resident were like gold dust during the Covid-19 pandemic) were near to, and consciously contrasting with, the SA prison in General Papestrasse in Schöneberg.

I was in the German capital city for the first time. A few months earlier, I had been chatting with my mum and she said we had a relative living there who I had never heard about before. It was lovely to meet Helen and her daughter, and to find that we had interests, age and other things in common. It was she who recommended the Jewish Museum (it was a Monday and lots of the others were shut). I only had that one day to explore, and I was really impressed by the architecture and the exhibition both.

Repurposed Nazi watch tower, Berlin

“The cellar rooms used as prison cells have been preserved in their condition from that time, with inscriptions and dates carved into the walls. Since 2013 there has been an exhibition here documenting the history of the prison.” Papestrasse

Walking out of Berlin City Centre, northwards
Berlin Wall

After my visit to the Jüdesches (Jewish) Museum, I walked a long way northwards, out of town, past the site of the Berlin Wall and Wilhelmstrasse. It was like walking through the history books. The end of this walk was the only time during my entire journey when I got scared and it was brief. There’s a section of very quiet streets and it was, by then, dark. I wasn’t sure I would be safe, but there seemed no option having got this far, so although the walk was really interesting, I would recommend getting a bus if you are leaving from the Flixbus stop on Berliner Strasse, Alt Tegel. I also didn’t find the stop very easily.

It was due to leave around 11pm, but was delayed by several hours. We waited and got cold, got random messages from the bus company, and eventually knew we had ages to wait, giving ample time to find somewhere warmer to sit and continue a lovely meeting with a Ukranian woman who was with her young daughter. She was understandably very worried about her husband and extended family back home. They were going to Amsterdam to try and sort out passport issues.

Berlin to The Hague to the Hook of Holland

Journey time: 9-9.5 hours Berlin to The Hague.

It was hard to find where to take the tram from The Hague (Den Haag) to the Hook of Holland (it takes just over an hour). There were lots of people wandering around looking and no-one knowing. When changing from the tram to the bus, the only place I could find to go the toilet was in a hospital (Haga Ziekenhuis)!

From the tram – Hague to Leyenburg, where I changed to a bus

The ferry terminal was almost empty. I was detained for quite a while as passport control flipped through my passport, looked at me, did it again and so on. In the end I asked what was wrong and they asked about going into the Schengan area and why I hadn’t got a stamp saying I’d gone out again. Presumably I was asleep. Thankfully, I had left myself plenty of time, and eveyrything went smoothly after that.

Hook of Holland ferry terminal, Netherlands

Photos above are of the Hook of Holland (Netherlands) ferry journey to Harwich, England

Harwich to London to Edinburgh

I took a late train into London using Greater Anglian Trains.

From the train between Harwich and London

And to Edinburgh via LNER (London and North Eastern Trains)

York railway station, England

Useful links, recommended reading etc

You may also like Overland Travel from Edinburgh to Greece 2

Travel websites: Infobus

Get By Bus

Flix Bus – beware they are very cheap, but there are very often delays and it’s hard to get any money back from them as recompense because they blame it on the roads and so on. If you have travel insurance (which I recommend if you are making complicated journeys like this – it’s not too expensive for a year – I used multitrip.com), it’s easier to claim from that.

Ride Sharing in Berlin

and into Kent from London – use South Eastern Trains

Recommended reading: Slow Living by Wendy Parkins and Geoffrey Craig (about the ‘slow’ movement of which this type of travel is a part); The Instant by Amy Liptrot (about her time spent in Berlin).

This trip was taken in May 2023. The title photo is of Keleti Station, Budapest. All images my own and are copyrighted to me.


Tinos and Kionia

May 2023

In this blog

T1A walk to Kionia, Poseidon Sanctuary, walk from Kionia to Chora (Tinos town).

Dovcot of traditional design outside Ktikados, Tinos, Greece

There are a wide range of walks around the Greek island of Tinos. Look out for wild goats, the most stunning variety of local flowers, and unexpected chapels with cool interiors, often with murals and other atmospheric images. On the whole the paths are quite well signposted, and the ones I made travelled through varied scenery, almost all taking in at least one of the famous dovecots. There are no high mountains, but there is some climbing and descending. Do look out for trails that can be dusty from lack of rain and slippery, also narrow and overgrown ones through lack of clearing, however, none of the ones I tried were impassable.

T1A trail – flora, Ktikados, chapel, and geology

I started the T1 trail at the Panagia Shrine, Chora, Tinos, Greece

It was a wonderful day which took me steeply out of the city, hard by the Panagia shrine (Holy Monastery of  Virgin Mary Evangelistria) and an olive grove, past hens, goats and ladybirds in the fields, and a vast array of wild plants: pink and white oleander, fig trees, sea lavender, and a giant cacti replete with prickly pears. I meandered along crazy-paving paths with spectacular views of the sea, across slopes with small churches, and amongst giant geological specimens.

Oleander, sea lavender and prickly pears along the T1 trail, Tinos, Greece

Geological map of Tinos from a presentation made as part of the Artist’s Residency, The Inherited Earth, part of the Fe26 project a collective research program by the NWMW NPO team 2023

There was a small church open for me to visit. Co-ordinates 37°33’35.8″N 25°09’34.2″E

I stopped in the small village of Ktikados for a break, enjoying melizanosalata (baba ganoush / aubergine dip) and a cup of tea.

View from the Drosia Taverna, Ktikados, Tinos, Greece

This walk comes highly recommended.

Great views of Exomvourgo (hill), Tinos, Greece
My offerings to the Panagia on the T1 trail, Tinos Greece
On the T1 trail

Eventually I descended to the beach in Kionia (see below) and had a refreshing swim.

The Poseidon Sanctuary

Along the boardwalks I was delighted to discover, by chance, the Poseidon Sanctuary which, in its heyday, attracted pilgrims from beyond the borders of the Greece, as far away as Italy, Asia Minor, and Africa.

The Poseidon Sanctuary is believed to date from the 4th century or earlier, placing it in the Hellenistic Period. Dedicated to the sea nymph Aphrite (Amphitriti) and Poseidon, god of the sea, it was a place where visitors would come to clean and purify themselves. As a complementary therapist, I was particularly interested in the site of the former therapy rooms (above left).

I gave Shiatsu to one of the artists I met, on the beach below this typical church while a kitten played with my rucksack, Kionia, Tinos, Greece.

I returned to Chora from Kionia, a walk of 40 plus minutes, along the main coastal road. Careful as there is no pavement in parts!

During my stay on Tinos, I crocheted wild flowers that I found as I walked and offered them in little niches by way of thanks for my experience on the island.

The title photo showing the peacocks, is of a plaque outside the Panagia shrine in Chora town. All images are my own.

Links

See also my blog: Tinos and Chora

Trails Tinos

Kirki Projects – about Tinos and artist’s residency

Map and walks by Desired landscapes

Poseidon Sanctuary on Secret Tinos site